I was surprised to see my containerized tomatoes starting to look like apple dolls. You know, those wrinkled up faces made out of withered apples ~ certainly not very appetizing!
When a plant is severely root bound, it may be necessary to cut the ring formation to encourage outward growth. To do this, use a sharp knife and cut vertical lines up the side of the root ball in several places. You only need to go in an inch or so. Using your fingers, pull the bottom roots outward as you place the plant in new soil.
Be sure to water well and your plants will grow new roots to support delicious above-ground growth!
Taproots tend to be straight, conical and tapered (think carrot). Lateral roots sprout from the taproot. Many weeds, such as dandelions, have taproots, which is why it is so important to pull them as soon as they are seen. The longer they are in the ground, the longer the taproot can get.
Many plants begin with a taproot, right after germination, but most monocots replace the taproot with a fibrous network, or adventitious, root system.
Growing plants with taproots in containers is usually a bad idea. As soon as the taproot hits the bottom of the container, the plant will be stunted and may die.
Most trees do not have a taproot. Pine and other confers, walnut, and hickory are exceptions to this rule.
Tomato plants grown from seed will develop a taproot, while tomatoes grown from cuttings will not. Cool, huh?
Colony Collapse Disorder (CCD) refers to the recent general die-off of honey bees worldwide. The causes of CCD may surprise you.
Unlike the rabble rousers who point to specific chemicals (neonicotinoids), corporations (Monsanto) or technologies (cell phone towers), researchers have discovered that CCD is the result of many factors.
According to Dr. May Berenbaum, scientific spokesperson on Colony Collapse Disorder, head of the University of Illinois Entomology Department and soon to be president of the Entomological Society of America explains that there are several factors leading to colony collapse:
• honey bees are not native to North America. They were brought here from Europe a few centuries ago
• as the practice of beekeeping expanded, common bee pests, specifically foulbrood and the Varroa mite, led to the use of antibiotics, fungicides and miticides
• honey bees naturally lack many of the immunity and detoxification genes that the rest of use have
Honey bees do have the advantage of eating foods that boost the power of the protective genes they do have. Pollen increases the production of proteins that defend against pathogens and metabolizes toxic compounds.
Harvard graduate Matan Shalom tells us "...CCD happens because bees have a naturally poor immunity to disease and to chemicals, both of which they are exposed to at higher rates and often together, and that immunity is made worse due to poor diet and stressful conditions. There is no one cause, nor is there one solution.”
So what can you do to help honey bees? Plant flowers that honeybees like, buy locally produced honey, start beekeeping in your own yard, and stay informed.
Over-watering container plants is surprisingly common. According to the University of California, improper irrigation is the #1 cause of plant problems.
Unfortunately, the signs of too much water look an awful lot like the signs for not enough water: yellowing, wilted leaves, stunted growth, and leaf drop are just a few of the signs for both problems.
Rather than drowning your plants, allow the soil to dry out between waterings. Don't guess! Physically look at the soil at root level to check on the roots' living conditions. An inexpensive moisture meter can be purchased at any garden supply store.
As critical as water is for good plant health, this is not a time to assume your plants are getting the water you give them. Soil structure can move water away from roots. When plants show water stress symptoms, dig down next to the root system to make sure the water is going where it is needed.
You may have recently spotted (or heard) a large metallic green bug buzzing around your yard. Green fruit beetles, or figeater beetles, are large, clumsy, metallic green pests.
My dogs and chickens love to chase green fruit beetles, and I am grateful. In the heat of summer, these pests fly in to lay eggs throughout my garden and landscape, taking a toll on my fig harvest. They also feed on apricots, nectarines, plums, grapes, pears, and tomatoes, as well as manure and compost. Generally, figeater beetles (Cotinis mutabilis), do not cause a lot of damage, but they can if enough of them converge on your garden.
Green fruit beetle controls
Since these pests are attracted to the smell of ripe fruit, harvest frequently. Also, you can plant crops that ripen earlier in the season to avoid feeding green fruit beetles. Personally, I have trained my dogs to catch them and I use a butterfly net to pin them down, then I feed them to my chickens, but you may not have that option. Luckily, it is very easy to build a green fruit beetle trap. Simply mix 1 part water with 1 part grape or peach juice and put it in a one-gallon container. Then, create a funnel out of screen or hardware cloth and insert it into the container. The adult beetles will be attracted to the juice, climb down into the container, and then be unable to figure out how to escape. (I wonder how chickens feel about beetles drowned in juice…)
We’ve all seen then flitting about, but there is far more to dragonflies than you might expect.
Members of the Odonata order (“toothed ones”), dragonflies are an ancient breed. Over 300 million years ago, their ancestors had a wingspan of nearly THREE FEET!
Starting out as an egg, dragonfly larva molt 6-15 times, over 2-6 years, before gaining the ability to fly.
Their huge eyes are made up of over 27,000 optical units and over 80% of their brain function is dedicated to analyzing visual information. (How they manage 4 wings at the same time is beyond me!)
Voracious feeders, a dragonfly can eat up to 300 mosquitos and flies each day, but gardeners beware! Dragonflies also eat honey bees. It is up to you to decide if they are a beneficial or a pest!
No, this is not a ghoulish new smoothie flavor, but it is an excellent source of natural nitrogen. Nitrogen is the primary nutrient needed by plants and it is highly volatile, which means it disappears quickly.
Rather than inundating your plants with chemicals and nutrients they don’t need, blood meal is an excellent way to keep your plants well fed. Blood meal is collected at slaughter houses and dried. It can be added to container plants, spread on lawns, or added to established plants. You can find blood meal at your local nursery or big box store.
Be sure to water thoroughly after applying blood meal and you will probably be astounded at the results. Within just a couple of days, your plants will be stronger, healthier, greener, and more productive.
As an added benefit, blood meal repels such pests as raccoons and deer.
Have you noticed fine webbing on your tomato plants recently? Are your leaves looking stippled (spotted white or yellow)? If so, you are like the many other gardeners experiencing spider mites in their garden.
Spider mites are very tiny. The females are only 1/20” and the males are even smaller! However, as spider mites colonize on a plant, you will see webbing, especially on the underside of the leaves. Spider mites can suck the life juices right out of your favorite heirloom tomato and these little buggers can complete an entire generation in less than a week! Unfortunately, drought-stressed plants are more susceptible to spider mite infestations.
One of the most common causes of spider mite infestations is the use of broad spectrum insecticides, which kill off benficial predators along with the pests. The easiest (and least destructive) way to get rid of spider mites is to move the infested plant to a clear area of the yard and spray it off with the hose. Insecticidal soaps or horticultural oils can also be used, but watch out for applying them on sunny days. I recently learned the hard way that leaves will burn if insecticidal soap is left on the leaves during the heat of the day.
If spraying your plants does not provide adequate control, you can purchase western predatory mites and Phytoseiulus (spider mite predators). Spider mites love dusty conditions, so you can make your yard less hospitable by giving plants an occasional light rinse.
Blossom end rot is the bane of tomato growers. It starts as small brown spots on the bottom of the fruit and expands to a large, sunken brown or black leathery area.
The rotten part can be cut off and the rest of the fruit is fine for eating.
You might be surprised to learn that your yard hosts a large variety of microclimates.
Microclimates are the localized conditions of temperature, moisture, sunlight, wind, soil, drainage patterns and other factors that make one site more suitable to some plants than others.
By figuring out what your microclimates are, you can select and manage plants far better than winging it with what “looks good”. Simply guessing about or ignoring these factors can mean increased pest and disease problems, more water consumption (and waste), and unproductive plants.
One easy way to learn more about the microclimates in your yard is to use your camera. Every few hours, take photos of your yard. This will show you sunlight exposure patterns, wind and dead air pocket trends, and problems you may not have suspected (such as a pesky squirrel).
Also, cardinal direction makes a big difference in microclimate. Northern and eastern exposure areas tend to be cooler and more moist, where western and southern exposures get more heat and dry out faster.
The University of California provides a worksheet you can use to help determine your microclimate.
You might be surprised to learn that your plants can get sunburned this 4th of July, just the way you can. Okay, so maybe it’s a little different, but too much sun can be deadly in either case.
When bark gets too much sun it is called sun scald and it can kill a tree. The damaged bark blisters and cracks, exposing internal tissue to pests and disease. To prevent sun scald, exposed branches and trunks can be painted with a 1:1 dilution of water and white latex paint. Do not use enamel paint because the tree needs to breath.
Selecting the right plant varieties and choosing the proper location are good ways to avoid sunburn and sun scald. Plants that are watered properly are less likely to be sunburned.
Be sure to water your plants thoroughly this summer (and especially on July 4th) to help protect against sunburn, sun scald, and bottle rockets.
The first time I saw a lawn that had been aerated, I couldn’t help wondering how or why so many dogs had pooped on that particular yard.
Of course, what I had seen was the hundreds of plugs of soil that had been pulled from the ground. So why is aeration a good thing?
Aeration is a good way to reduce soil compaction. In compacted soil, the particles are too close together to allow water, air, nutrients, or roots to move through the soil. Here in the Bay area, we have a lot of clay, which is prone to compaction.
Professional aeration removes hundreds of small plugs of soil and deposits them on the lawn surface. The plugs are generally 1/4-1/2” in diameter and 3-4” long. Ideally, a plug is taken every 6”, but this can be a bit much when doing the job by hand. Aeration machines are heavy, so the benefit is a mixed bag. Personally, I use my soil sampling tube, but that’s a very slow process. You should not use a screwdriver or aeration shoes as these simply poke a hole by compacting the surrounding soil even more. There are hand aerifiers that will make the job go much faster than my soil sampler but without the compaction of heavy machinery. Over time, these plugs break down into healthier soil. The holes also provide access for water and air to nearby roots.
When you aerate your soil, it is best done a few days after watering, so that the soil is easier to work. Spring is the best time to aerate your soil. Unless your soil is heavily compacted by foot traffic, summer is not a good time as the soil can dry out too much and damage root systems.
Fireblight, or fire blight, is a bacterial disease that frequently attacks trees in the pome family. This includes pears, quince, crabapple and my apple tree! Fireblight can also attack raspberries and blackberries, so you know I don’t like it!
The Erwinia amylovora bacterium is the cause of fireblight, but you’ll never see it without a microscope. The most common first sign of infection is the die-off of an entire twig. The dead leaves hold fast to the stem throughout the growing season as the infection spreads.
Fireblight can be fatal to your fruit trees and it is difficult to manage. Carefully monitoring your trees when they flower can provide early warning. Fireblight normally attacks through the blossoms, carried in by bees and other insects from other infected trees. As blossoms become infected, they wilt and turn dark brown. The infection then spreads down the twig. Very often, the tip of the diseased twig will curl into a shepherd’s crook shape.
Insects pick up the bacteria from small, insignificant looking cankers that become active in spring. These cankers are actually dead tissue from the previous year’s infection. A clear, tan ooze can be seen dripping from these cankers. Each droplet can contain millions of bacteria which are then spread by insects and droplets of water. Infestation can be prevented with applications of Bordeaux mixture in fall and winter.
Once identified, the only treatment is removal of the diseased tissue. Cuts should be made 8-12” below the infected area and clippers should be dipped in 10% bleach solution after each cut to prevent further spread. The infection can be seen by scraping off the bark and cambium layer to expose pink to orangish-red streaks. It is critical that all of the infected tissue is removed or the disease will continue to spread.
I hope this information inspires you to grow more of your own food. You can ask your garden questions on my Home page.