Cardamom varieties

There are two main types and a handful of lesser-known culinary cardamoms. True or green cardamom (Elettaria cardamomum) is used in sweet and savory dishes and is light green. It is called white cardamom when it has been bleached. Larger and darker black cardamom seeds (Amomum subulatum) are also known as brown and Nepal cardamom and are more commonly used in savory dishes.

​Other culinary cardamoms include the following:

• Ethiopian cardamom (Aframomum corrorima)
• Java cardamom, also known as round cardamom (Wurfbainia compacta)
• Red cardamom (Lanxangia tsaoko)
• Siam cardamom, also known as white cardamom (W. vera)
• Tavoy cardamom (W. villosa var. xanthioides)

 
All of these plants are native to tropical and subtropical Asia, which provides a strong hint about how they grow and what they look like.

Grown outdoors, a cardamom plant may grow up to 15 feet tall and 10 feet wide, though most are significantly smaller. Indoor cardamom plants only reach a height of two to four feet tall.

These plants are slow starters. They may only be one foot tall after two years. In the third year, they may be twice that tall. And that’s when seed production begins.
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How to grow cardamom
 
Cardamom can be grown from seeds or thick, knobby rhizomes. These plants prefer loose, nutrient-rich, slightly acidic soil (5.1-6.1 pH), partial to full shade, and relatively high humidity (think lower canopy of a jungle), which makes them ideal house plants, especially in the bathroom. They perform well in containers (preferably 14 inches tall and wide or bigger). Cardamom does not take kindly to being transplanted, so plan accordingly.
 
You can grow cardamom outside in USDA Plant Hardiness Zones 10-12. If you can plant it in a rain garden, all the better!
 
Seeds should be planted 1/8 inch deep. They take a month or so to germinate. Some people recommend soaking seeds ahead of time. Personally, I worry about damping off and other fungal diseases. You do need to keep the soil moist and provide good drainage. Areas where cardamom grows naturally receive 150 inches of rain each. You want to keep your cardamom plant’s environment stable at or above 72°F/22°C. They don’t like changes, extremes, or direct sunlight.
 
Feed your cardamom plant high-phosphorous fertilizer twice a month during the growing season. Top dressing with aged compost will help keep your cardamom happy and healthy.

If growing cardamom indoors, know that flowering and seed production are less likely. If flowers do appear, you probably only have one day to hand-pollinate. It’s actually quite simple. Use a small, preferably natural bristle paintbrush and touch the male anther to collect microscopic pollen grains, then touch the female stigmas. The more you do this, the more likely pollination will occur. If successful, the flower will fall off, and the fruit (ovary) will swell.

Harvest the pods when they begin to split. They should come away easily. If they don’t, give them another day or two.
 
Cardamom pests and diseases
 
Cardamom is a relatively trouble-free plant. However, aphids may infect plants with cardamom mosaic, and thrips feeding can be a problem.
 
Cardamom plants are productive for eight or nine years, on average. Your experience may vary.
 
Did you know that green cardamom is the third most expensive spice by weight, following saffron and vanilla? I didn’t either.
 
Luckily, it only takes a little for that warm, exotic flavor. And if you grow your own, it's free.

Dead arm management
 
Once these fungal diseases appear, careful pruning is needed to prevent them from spreading. Infected limbs should be cut at least 12 inches below any noticeable infection, and cutters should be dipped in a household cleaner between each cut to prevent the spread of disease. Infected plant material should be thrown in the trash and not composted. Fixed copper sprays or fungicides may also be needed.
 
How to prevent dead arm
 
Moisture is nearly always a contributing factor to fungal diseases. Make sure your sprinklers are not hitting vines or tree trunks.
 
Pruning for good air flow will help prevent these and many other diseases. Plants susceptible to Eutypa dieback should be pruned in summer, rather than during dormancy. This allows wounds to dry and heal before fungi can enter.
 
Contrary to popular opinion, do not use sealants on your vines or trees after pruning. Sealants seal moisture in, creating a protected environment for fungi to grow unseen until it’s too late. Let a callus form naturally instead.