 Rubus 'Thornless Youngberry', Australia (Nadiatalent) CC BY-SA 4.0 In 1905, Byrnes Young crossed “Mayes” dewberries with the “Phenomena” blackberry-raspberry hybrid, which resulted in Youngberries.
Youngberry plants Cousin to loganberries, nessberries, olallieberries, and tayberries, youngberry fruits (Rubus caesius ‘Youngberry') are slightly smaller and sweeter than blackberries. They can be dark red or deep purple to nearly black. They start ripening earlier in the season. Canes are moderately thorny, making them a nice choice as a security hedge. Thornless varieties are also available. Both varieties may have tiny prickles on new canes. As with other brambles, fruit is produced on second-year floricanes. These canes can be up to ten feet long and should be removed when fruit production ends. Plants are self-pollinating and can be grown in containers. How to grow Youngberries at home Youngberry canes should be installed in late winter to early spring. They thrive in slightly acidic, fertile clay or loamy soil and benefit from top dressings of aged manure or other compost. Like other cane fruits, they perform better when trellised or trained up a fence. Canes that touch the ground are likely to generate new plants. Be sure to provide good drainage and airflow. Like raspberries, your Youngberries may need shade in the afternoon to prevent sunburn damage. Allow for up to ten canes per plant. Plants should be spaced five to six feet apart. Youngberry plants are not drought tolerant, so regular irrigation is critical during the summer months. Youngberry pests and diseases Youngberry plants are known to be vigorous and highly disease resistant. But excess moisture and poor airflow can result in Fusarium wilt, gray mold, and Verticillium wilt. Fruit flies, spider mites, and thrips may also appear. Birds, grasshoppers, opossums, and other critters can be problematic. Netting may be necessary. You will probably never see these fruits in stores because they do not ship well, but I hope they make it to your garden. |
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