Cinnamon

Many of us use cinnamon in baking and other dishes, but how much do we know about this fascinating spice? And did you know that much of the cinnamon found in stores isn’t really cinnamon? Read on!

Dried bark strips, bark powder and flowers of Ceylon cinnamon (Simon A. Eugster) CC BY-SA 3.0

Cinnamon has been prized for thousands of years. Initially considered fit only for gods, monarchs, and mummies, those who knew where it came from kept their sources secret to maintain their monopoly. Instead, they encouraged myths about giant cinnamon birds who collected the dried sticks from distant shores where the trees were guarded by winged serpents. Two thousand years ago, 11 ounces of cinnamon cost the equivalent of 50 months’ labor. In the Middle Ages, it was believed that cinnamon was fished up in nets from the Nile River.
 
In any case, the delicious aroma we associate with cinnamon comes to us from the inner bark of several different trees in the Cinnamomum genus. These trees are cousins to bay and other laurels. Cinnamon trees are evergreens with oval leaves and thick bark.

Cinnamon leaves (L. Shyamal) CC BY-SA 3.0

Ceylon cinnamon
 
Ceylon is the true cinnamon (Cinnamomum verum aka C. zeylanicum). It is sweeter and more delicate than Cassia. It is often sold in rolled-up sheets of inner bark known as quills. Ceylon quills are thinner and lighter in color than Cassian quills. They are also easier to break and contain more beneficial antioxidants. Ceylon cinnamon is also known as Mexican cinnamon.
 
Ceylon cinnamon is harvested during the rainy season of Sri Lanka when the essential oils and aromatics are most concentrated using a sustainable, labor-intensive method. It is best used in European and Latin American recipes, Middle Eastern tomato sauce, and milk-based recipes, such as custard and Horchata.

​Cassian cinnamon
 
Most commercially available cinnamon comes to us from a slightly different group of plants known as cassia. These trees are generally grown in China. They have a coarser texture, are more pungent, and are harder to break. The quills are darker, thicker, and have less layers.

Cinnamon tree (Challiyan) CC BY-SA 3.0

There are four major types of cassia:

• Chinese cinnamon or Chinese cassia (C. cassia) is the most commonly found cinnamon in North America. It is used in Chinese five-spice and many Chinese dishes, as well as fall and winter baked goods
• Indonesian cinnamon (C. burmanni) is also known as Padang cassia and Korintje cinnamon. It has hints of clove and pepper and is often used in chutneys, curries, and other Indonesian dishes.
• Malabar cinnamon (C. citriodorum)
• Saigon cinnamon or Vietnamese cassia (C. loureiroi) comes from Vietnam. It has a high oil content, giving it a more intense flavor, that is best suited for pumpkin pie and snickerdoodles.

 
Cassia is often mixed with true cinnamon to form a counterfeit product marked falsely as cinnamon. I guess we get what we pay for.
 
How cinnamon is managed
 
Cinnamon trees are allowed to grow for two years before harvesting begins. They are grown on plantations in South America, Asia, China, and India. Once the trees are mature enough, they are coppiced. The following year, parts of the outer bark are scraped off to expose the inner bark. This inner bark is peeled off and sun-dried or ground into powder. Stick cinnamon can last up to five years when stored in an airtight container, but ground cinnamon should be used within six months. Or, you can try growing your own.

Cinnamon flowers (Augustus Binu) CC BY-SA 3.0

How to grow cinnamon
 
You can grow a cinnamon tree indoors pretty much anywhere. You’ll need to live in USDA Hardiness Zones 10-12 for one to grow well outside. These trees prefer slightly acidic soil (pH 6.2-7.2).
 
Depending on the variety selected, your tree may grow 3 to 60 feet tall and 2 to 20 feet wide, so plan accordingly. Your cinnamon tree will need plenty of direct sunlight but can handle some afternoon shade. These trees should be watered deeply and fertilized often when establishing a root system and every spring.
 
You can grow a cinnamon tree from a stem cutting or purchase a seedling.
 
Cinnamon pests and diseases
 
Cinnamon trees are vulnerable to several fungal diseases including types of Diplodia, the fungal pathogen responsible for anthracnose (Glomerella cingulate), and a form of dieback known as cinnamon fungus (Phytophthora cinnamomi).
 
Leaf miners and mealybugs are common cinnamon tree pests. In the tropics, cinnamon butterfly caterpillars and cinnamon gall mites are the primary pests.
 
When cinnamon is cured improperly, many pests are attracted to the fragrant, vulnerable wood. Fumigation with sulfur dioxide is the most common treatment. [I have no idea how much sulfur dioxide remains on our cinnamon once it reaches the store.]