By Jo Ellen Meyers Sharp Whether you call it an edible landscape, food scaping, stealth gardening, or veggies in pots, you have many choices for how to incorporate food into your landscape. Even better, unusual or uncommon edible plants add diversity to your garden and dinner table. Many ornamental plants are edible, however, when eating anything from the landscape, you want to make sure that the plants have not been treated with pesticides –– the last thing you want to put in your body. Several ornamental edible plants fall under the herb category; it’s just that we don’t always think of them as herbs. Here are five uncommon edible plants that will keep all but the foodies guessing. Lavender (Lavandula spp.) Fragrance and a long bloom period are what make lavender a great plant for the garden and the menu. Grow this woody perennial in full sun where the soil drains well and may even be a little gravely. Lavender is drought-resistant, and butterflies, bees, and other pollinators love it. You’ll love it too when you add lavender flowers to ice cream (homemade even better), salads, scones, shortbreads, teas, ice cubes, and more. Dried buds are potent – so potent that they were used in mummification and health mixtures for all kinds of issues in the ancient past. Lavender comes from the Latin verb lavare, meaning “to wash.” One concern about using lavender in cooking is its intense flavor, which can make food have a soapy taste. Although all lavenders are edible, some are grown for their strong fragrance and oils for soaps, sachets, and lotions. The best edible lavender is English lavender (Lavandula angustifolia) because it has fewer oils. Nasturtium (Tropaeolum minus) The leaves and flowers of this annual add a peppery taste to salads. Rich in vitamin C and antioxidants, nasturtiums are easy to grow in a pot from seed. You might be able to find transplants of nasturtium in garden centers in the spring. Grow nasturtium in a sunny to partly sunny spot and water during dry spells. Apply a plant fertilizer according to label directions. Rose (Rosa spp.) Yes, you can eat your roses. The petals from this shrub can be tossed in salads especially, but also are used in baking shortbreads and scones. Rose hips (the seeds of roses) are common as a tea. Grow roses in full sun. Roses, especially the landscape types like Drift, Knock Out, and Flower Carpet, do best when fertilized and watered regularly. Use a fertilizer formulated for roses, such as Espoma Rose-tone, available at most garden centers and home improvement stores. Remember to apply fertilizer at the base of the plant rather than all over. You don’t want to eat plant fertilizer either, so be especially careful to keep it off the petals. Serviceberry (Amelanchier spp.) This is the perfect plant for four seasons. A native tree, it can be grown as a multi-stem or single-stem specimen. Serviceberry has slightly fragrant white flowers in spring, followed by purple, blue, or pink fruit in June, tremendous red-orange fall color, and attractive silvery bark that stands out in the winter landscape. In the wild, serviceberry is an understory tree, found in shafts of light or on the fringes of woodlands. The fruit is delicious, similar to blueberry. Use them in scones, mix with yogurt, or toss in a salad. If you don’t eat the fruit, the birds will. Wild violets (Viola spp.) What’s prettier than violet flowers mixed with butter and jellies spread on freshly baked biscuits? These perennial violets in the lawn or garden beds (some people call them weeds) are in the same family as edible pansies and Johnny jump-ups. Violets are easy to grow in sun or shade. Some gardeners transplant them from the lawn to flower beds where they work as a ground cover. If pulling from the lawn, be sure they have not been treated with herbicides, insecticides, or fungicides. If you’re worried about how to grow your edible garden without pesticides so you can safely eat the plants, remember that there are plenty of beneficial insects –– even spiders –– that help your garden grow. In addition to the pollinators, like bees, butterflies, flies, beetles, and birds, your plants need other critters in order to thrive. So, skip the pesticides that will kill all the bugs, and let nature work its magic.
Advice on implementing sustainable practices in your garden like home-made compost, DIY weed killers and more to have a garden that's natural and thriving.
Eco-friendly gardening methods mean less money spent on expensive weed solutions/ compost mixes, saving you money & helping your garden thrive naturally at the same time. Gardening in a sustainably minded way also means your garden is likely to thrive for longer, meaning less maintenance for you in the long run.
How to Create a Container Garden for Edibles and Plants That Thrive During the Fall Season9/25/2023
A lot of people think the growing season ends with summer. However, you can create a container garden for edibles and other plants that thrive during fall. Many of the plants also possess the ornamental value we crave for our pots. We’ll show you how to create a container garden for your edibles. Start with cool-season plants Many cool-season plants are also spring favorites because they can tolerate low temperatures and bounce back. Pansies are a good example of an edible plant working in spring and fall containers. Read on to discover more plant suggestions. Where to place containers Group containers to aid harvesting and maintenance. By grouping pots, you can plant each with individual plants rather than a mixed planting. Pots with individual plants mimic a garden. Grouping containers also makes it easier to toss protection over your plants if freezing temperatures threaten your landscape. Most of the plants can take a light freeze, but a hard freeze may kill some. Use a cover, blanket, or sheet to protect your plants when needed. It’s best to tent these coverings above your plants. Do not use plastic sheeting, and if a hard freeze threatens, harvest as much as you can to eat or freeze. Remember that the sun is lower in the sky in the fall and winter and that more sun is likely since trees and shrubs have lost their leaves. Most edible plants do best when grown in full sun, or about eight hours of direct sun a day. Group plants where you have the best light. Additionally, place pots where you have easy access to water. Although watering needs may be lower in the fall, plants still need an occasional drink to keep them growing and producing. What to do with summer plants in the fall Some annuals will carry over into the fall, such as Calibrachoa and Verbena. Although not edible, they tolerate cooler temps and continue to bloom. Compost or toss other summer plants to make room for your fall selections. What kind of containers should you use? If you are starting with a new container, select one with drainage holes. All-season material, such as fiberglass or heavy plastic, can survive winter temperatures. Fill containers with a high-quality potting mix. Potting mix is lighter weight than soil and drains better. Some potting mixes also contain plant fertilizers. Where to get plants for fall containers Broccoli, Brussels sprouts, parsley, pansies, and Johnny jump-ups may be found in some garden centers, home improvement stores, and other retailers. The number and types of plants available will be less than what retailers have in the spring. To be sure to get the fall edibles you want, sow seed. Some plants are easy to grow from seed sown in midsummer for transplanting to a fall container. You’ll also find ornamental cabbage and kale in garden centers in the fall. Although lovely ornamental plants, the leaves have a bitter taste. Use the leaves for displaying tempting food treats like appetizers. Ornamental cabbage and kale last well into the winter. If they look good, use them as natural ornaments in winter greenery. How to care for edibles and plants in fall containers Water containers when the top inch of soil feels dry. Mix a granular fertilizer into the soil when planting transplants or apply a water-soluble fertilizer after planting. Always read and follow label directions. If it’s a long fall season with moderate temperatures, the containers may need to be fertilized every few weeks to keep plants growing. As with any garden, monitor plants for diseases like powdery mildew or beneficial insects like spiders. Spiders are good for your garden because they trap and eat troublesome bugs, like aphids. When caught early, controlling problems may be as easy as spraying insects off your plant with water. Always know what you have before you treat it. How to harvest edible plants in the fall Harvesting plants in the fall is the same as in the summer. Snip off leafy greens, starting with the outside leaves. Harvest broccoli as stalks or heads, and Brussels sprouts as stalks or individual sprouts. Snip off parsley, peas, and pansy flowers with scissors. 12 great edibles that thrive in fall containers:
*Pro top: The edibles marked with an asterisk are easy to grow from seed. Simply read and follow the seed packet’s directions. By: Tammy Pitts Gone are the days when people thought they needed a huge backyard or acres of land to grow their own food at home. People have now realized they can start a garden anywhere, be it on a rooftop, patio, or kitchen counter. And while gardening in small spaces can be challenging, it’s definitely doable. Here are six tips to help you establish your small garden. 1. Choose your plants wisely The first tip is not to choose a large variety of plants but to narrow it down to a few seeds that won’t crowd each other. Plants that are grown too close together can end up competing for nutrients and light. Plants that are properly spaced will give you a better yield versus trying to squeeze in too many plants in the same space. For example, tomatoes and basil fare well together, but tomatoes don’t do so well when planted next to corn or potatoes. Also, take time to research which plants grow best in your region and which gardening techniques will work for you. 2. Consider the layout and light conditions The essentials you’ll need for any garden to thrive are water, good soil, and plenty of sunlight –– and that means your garden’s layout is extremely important. Plants should be positioned in a way to receive the proper nutrients and sunlight. To maximize a small gardening space, choose a location in your yard that provides adequate sunlight. 3. Grow vertically Vertical gardening is quite popular these days. It’s a great way to grow a lot of vegetables in a small footprint, and trellises are great for small-space gardening. Growing plants upwards not only saves space in your garden beds but trellised plants are exposed to more sunlight which helps fruits to ripen faster. For example, green beans are a favorite of many backyard gardeners and can easily be planted on teepees. Cucumbers are another plant that will climb and prosper on a wide trellis. 4. Use containers Containers are a great way to grow plants in small spaces because you can add them to patios, balcony areas, or even your kitchen counter. Herbs, for example, don’t take up a lot of space and will grow well in containers. 5. Say goodbye to rows and hello to pathways Forget about growing plants single-file in long, straight rows. You don’t need straight rows –– especially since you don’t have the space anyway. If you plant in curves, your garden will look natural and informal. But do add pathways! This feature will make the space feel bigger. You can create a pathway simply by using wood chips. 6. Raised beds yield more produce Another tip is to use raised beds. You can grow significantly more produce in the same space by using raised beds –– plus the benefits of raised beds are endless. You can keep weeds from infiltrating your garden soil, prevent water runoff and soil compaction, and you won’t have to worry much about garden pests like snails and slugs. Don’t feel limited by the amount of outdoor space you have. In fact, many of us do not have acres and acres of land or even the time to have huge plots, but we can still enjoy eating home-grown juicy tomatoes from the vine or home-grown vegetables hot off the grill by embracing the space we do have.
By Hannah Simpson A verdant and fruitful garden is always a treat to the eyes and a balm to the soul, so just imagine how amazing it would be if it were your garden. Of course, it’s going to demand time, attention, money, and hard work from you. But with tangible benefits like a more beautiful home and healthy food on your table, the ROI is more than compelling — and a great garden can also help you sell your home when the time comes! The fact that you’re contributing to a better world can be a welcome bonus, as well. So, The Daily Garden takes a moment to break down the process of starting and sustaining a productive garden.
Learn the Basics Like most things worth doing, gardening should start with due diligence. By breaking down the basics of such an amazing activity and understanding its nuances, you not only ensure that you can grow stuff, but you can also create a productive garden worth admiring.
Focus on Health A garden is a wonderful addition to any home. But with the hard work that goes into it, why not ensure it also serves you and your family in other ways? In fact, growing food in your garden ensures that you eat healthy at all times while also getting a good workout in the process.
Invest in Sustainable Solutions A good garden is not only productive; it should be sustainable, too. By and large, your garden actually has the potential to become your most significant contribution to the environment, so consider making use of eco-friendly techniques to make it count.
Suffice it to say, having a productive garden actually need not be a pipe dream. In fact, the hardest part is in learning how to get started. From there, you can just about hit the ground running and start enjoying the holistic benefits of such a valuable addition to your home. You’re happy, and so are your family and Mother Nature — so what’s not to love? To read more about gardening life, explore the musings at The Daily Garden! By Linda B Campbell-King This morning I spotted a nesting pair of blue violet swallows as they gathered stems from a weed patch in my garden. I spotted a California thrasher working through a pile of acorns and oak leaves I had left piled in a heap. These birds would not have been in my yard if I kept it all cultivated and in proper order. A garden can be an ongoing struggle against Mother Nature. A gardener must fend off a myriad of competing life forms: weeds, gophers, crows, insects, etc. A few years back I made a decision to stop battling nature, and instead celebrate and encourage it. How can a conventional backyard promote nature? Every garden and gardener is unique, but here is how my little Silicon Valley nature garden came to be. My backyard was originally designed around an oval lawn for dogs and kids to play on. The lawn was surrounded by fruit trees and flowerbeds. Near the back fence was a vegetable garden with raised beds. Cement walkways circled around the edges. Years of effort and expense had been devoted to creating this cultivated landscape. I enjoyed catching glimpses birds and squirrels as I tended to my garden chores. My relationship with nature shifted however when I made the difficult decision to save 10% or more of my water use by not watering the lawn. Then I stopped fighting gophers and moles - why kill them if I wasn't going to have a lawn anyway? I started to enjoy watching the gophers poking their heads up as they dug their burrows. I began to create dirt paths through the dead lawn so I could get close to where butterflies were fluttering around in what was rapidly becoming a weed patch. I realized birds were attracted to the weed seeds and stopped cutting the weeds. I starting researching and identifying weeds themselves, and was soon appreciating the beauty of some of them, the invasive threat of others. I bought a book on insect identification. At this point I realized that that my yard was becoming a nature preserve. I made a conscious decision to create a garden with two opposing purposes, 1) cultivate food and flowers and 2) promote nature. There would be conflict, but I would see what I could do. After several years of paying attention to my new nature preserve and modifying my gardening behavior, I can report some of the results, most of them positive. When I stopped killing gophers, I found there were limits to their population growth. Gophers sometimes surge, but there are also periods of reduced activity. I suspect predators are at work, especially owls and gopher snakes, though I haven't seen either yet. I have observed hawks cruising my yard; and house cats, usually a Maine Coon, waiting patiently for a gopher to raise its head. Although I haven't seen a bobcat in my yard, neighbors have, and I have every reason to believe they prowl at night for rodents. As gophers return like swallows to my raised beds, I grow more and more vegetables and herbs in large containers. Container gardening is producing abundant edibles in a sunny corner of what was once the lawn. A nature preserve banishes the use of herbicides. I enjoy weeding, which is excellent exercise and gets me out of the house. I have eliminated a lot of crabgrass, an alien invader in the Bay Area, with hand-to-hand combat. It can be done. Bunnies. In the last few years bush bunnies have dug under the fence and chosen to remain. Bees and Pollinators. Neighbors posting on NextDoor.com keep reporting the death and decline of bees and pollinators. Yet my yard is buzzing with pollinator insects: bees, including endangered Crotch's bumblebees, beneficial hover flies, etc. They love sages especially. Monarch butterflies are in serious decline in my region, but I see butterflies in my yard every day of the year. All I can do for monarchs is plant native milkweed. But I see fritillaries, endangered swallowtails, painted ladies, skippers, buckeyes, acmon blues, and others less well known. Ten years ago huge orb weaver spiders were common in my yard in the fall. I had to tear down their webs if I wanted to walk along a path. However, in the last several years their population has declined and I don't have to deal with them. I believe it is because of an increasing population of Bewick's wrens. They feed on quantities of spiders and insects. This is an example of the changing dynamics of the garden. In the last several years I have enjoyed sharing the garden with a new population of fence lizards. They remind me of miniature dinosaurs. Previously I saw only occasional alligator lizards. Fence lizards claim a sunny spot and wait patiently for insects. It's fun to get to know them as they get used to you. Things you can do to Promote Nature in a Garden: 1. Go to a nursery on a warm sunny day and watch for butterflies, bees, and hummingbirds. What plants are they attracted to? Those are the ones you want to select and plant in your garden. 2. Know your hostile weeds. Make observations and do research. There are plants I keep daily vigilance against because they could take over the whole yard and crowd out nature. Especially guard against:
3. Plant Passiflora, passion vine, as a favorite food for fritillary butterfly larvae. If your milkweed is failing to attract monarchs, at least you will still host lively orange and black butterflies. 4. Mosquitoes. These are not only irritating, they are vectors of malaria, zika, West Nile virus, etc. They cannot be tolerated. But you don't have to spray insecticide all over your property. Educate yourself on how to eliminate standing water, and the proper use of oils to add to water features. Sadly, because of mosquitoes, I have abandoned lingering in the garden after dusk. We go inside when we hear the slightest buzz. If I really wanted to stay outside in the dark, we would construct a screened-in porch. 5. Rose of Sharon. Many see this as a difficult weed with a hard-to-pull taproot, and it reseeds easily. But I let some live to feed the bush bunnies. It's one of their favorite foods, and at least in my yard, there is balance. 6. Butterflies are attracted to wet clay. This is called "mud puddling." Keep a small wet patch for them. 7. Birdbaths are essential, both for bathing and drinking. Mammals will also drink the water. Wash and refill often, to prevent disease and mosquitoes. 8. A nature preserve does not need bird feeders. The weeds in my yard provide lots of free seeds, and birds are pecking away at them all day. 9. Oaks are so common in California that their sprouted acorns act like weeds. I have two large oaks. I pile up their leaves and acorns out on the meadow. Wild creatures rake, rummage, dig and fight over the acorns all year long. 10. Bunnies. Leave favorite weeds for the bunnies to eat instead of your valued crops and flowers. In my yard they mostly graze on the wild plants in the meadow, which is what we call where the lawn used to be. You will have to observe your bunnies to see what they eat, and experiment. I have had a lot of fun doing this. They roam the neighborhood grazing on neighbors' lawns and shrubs. I think wild bunnies use my garden as a nesting area safe from dogs. It is futile to try and eliminate them - they multiply like rabbits. Note: information on the internet says bunnies don't eat rose of Sharon. I watched one yesterday chow down on one in my yard. 11. Oxalis. Know your local oxalis strains. Some are hostile invaders; others bring joy and beauty. In spring my meadow is a field of beautiful waving oxalis flowers. After the rains stop the oxalis rapidly dries up, and I rake it away. 12. Set up wire tomato cages out in the open. Birds will use them to perch on, and you will see them easily. Place them over your hummingbird plants and the hummers will rest as they feed! 13. Spend time sitting quietly in the wild yard, and you will make many interesting discoveries. I find that birds, bunnies, even lizards will approach me. They want to figure out if I am a friend who will go about my own business, or an enemy who will give them chase. I have come to believe that if I move slowly and predictably, they think I am a harmless grazer. Birds and small animals like to be near a large grazer, as they stir up the ground and expose grubs, or serve as protection against predators like cats or coyotes. If I quit "grazing" and head for the house, the flock near me will take off too. Not out of fear of a gardener, but of a possible approaching predator. 14. Rats and mice. These are intolerable in the house. Garbage must be tightly contained at all times. But native strains of rats and mice out in the garden are just part of nature, and it is futile to mindlessly trap or poison them. There is only one way to guard against rats and mice in the house, and that is to keep them out. Every crack and hole in the exterior of a house and attic must be carefully sealed. Keep unscreened doors shut. 15. Coyotes. All over the USA coyotes are increasing in urban environments. Last night at 1:30 a.m. I was awakened by the eerie howling and yapping of a coyote concert in the distance. I'm tempted to leave my gate open so they can prowl and maybe catch some rodents. On the other hand, I think I'll draw the line there and keep the gate locked at night. I no longer view my garden as a battleground. After several years of letting nature take the upper hand, I am inclined to let nature have its way in my meadow. I will never return to a lawn. I will grow vegetables safe from gophers in large containers. I will use my raised beds for experiments and flowers. Best of luck with your own Garden of Eden. Linda B Campbell-King is a writer, gardener, championship barbershop singer, and so much more!
Walt Disney Pictures has made all of us familiar with the tale of Aladdin. My favorite story, however, is Ali Baba and the Forty Thieves featuring the magical cave of treasures that responded to the cry of Open Sesame! Strangely neither of these two stories were part of the original Arabic compendium but were added by Galland after hearing them from a Syrian storyteller in Paris. Favorite Middle Eastern Foods Sesame is seemingly all around us although I had never seen or given any thought to an actual sesame plant (Sesamum indicum)! When I was younger, neither pita nor tahina were a regular part of anyone’s diet. I was introduced to them both in Israel where every respectable Mizrachi (Jews from Arab countries) restaurant began their meal service with a plate of pita bread and assorted dishes of pickled vegetables and tehina (or tehini), a dip made of sesame seeds. Pita is a form of flatbread which have a history going back over 14,000 years. Flatbreads are usually thin grain products apparently made without leavening although my fabulous recipe for Barbari, an Iranian flatbread, does call for yeast. (Recipe available upon request). Pita is made with yeast, flour, salt and water and it puffs up during baking forming a pocket. This flatbread version seems fairly recent although the name was originally used by Sephardic Jews who fled to Greece in 1492 after the expulsion of Jews from Spain. They used the word pita for the local round pieces of flatbreads that they found in their new country. The word may derive from the Hebrew patt meaning a morsel of bread. The word migrated into Greek and from there into other languages. History of Sesame Sesame seeds and their oil also have a lengthy history. They are mentioned in records from the Indus Valley civilization (India) from 3050-3500 BCE. There are numerous mentions of it. As well, from Indian religious literature (note the epithet in the scientific name). Herodotus wrote about it in the fifth century BCE and there are records about sesame from third century BCE from both China and Egypt. The largest producers of sesame seeds today are Sudan, Myanmar and India. World production is about 6 million tonnes (2,204 pounds called a metric ton in the US). The etymology of sesame derives ultimately from the Akkadian šamaššamu which moved into the Greek as sesamon and finally becoming the Latin sesamum. The original Semitic root is smn (Semitic word roots do not include vowels). In Hebrew shemen means oil and sesame oil was a major crop. It is believed that sesame, also known as benne, was brought to the United States during the period of African slavery. That sesame plant is native to west and central Africa is Sesamum radiatum and has been cultivated there for generations. In addition to the seeds, the stalks and the leaves are used as a thickener to cooked dishes in a manner similar to okra. This effect require pounding the leaves before cooking. The sesame plant The sesame plant is low-maintenance. It grows under dry conditions although it needs moisture for germination and a temperature above 68°F. The plant height ranges from 1.6-3.3 ft taking 100 - 135 days to reach maturity. The seeds develops inside a pod. If care is not taken during harvesting, the pod will shatter and the seeds will scatter. A shatter-resistant variety was already developed in the 1940s. Although the sesame can self- pollinate, yields are increased when cross pollination takes place. Common pollinators are bees, beetles, moths and butterflies, as well as flies. The sesame plant is a member of the Pedaliaceae family – otherwise known as the sesame family. It is a member of the Order Scrophulariales containing a total of 10 families. Among the more familiar plants in that order are bear’s breeches, butterfly bush (buddleia), and olive trees. At this point, the magic phrase used as a charm in the Arabian Nights - open sesame - makes more sense as we wait for the pods to ripen, open, and scatter their wealth. Sura Jeselsohn has just published her first book, A Habit of Seeing: Journeys in Natural Science, in which botanical wanderlust collides joyfully with science, paleontology, and mysteries of the natural world. She also writes a weekly column, “Green Scene,” published by Riverdale Press. Sura Jeselsohn graduated with a Master of Science from NYU and now spends her retirement exploring and blogging at www.surajeselsohn.com.
By Kimberly Park When you hear someone bark, "Who let the dogs out?", it’s more than likely a gardener. Even the most ardent animal lover has a bone to pick with a dog who poops, pees, and digs in the garden. Instead of getting angry, learn how to keep your dog out of your garden. Dog-repellent plants Dogs hate chili peppers, lemongrass, citrus trees, garlic, and onions -- veggies that people love to eat. Just the smell of these plants is enough to keep your dog at bay. The herb, rue, is also a great repellent for dogs and cats, but use it cautiously. Rue can be toxic to people, so while it's OK to plant around your rose bushes, it isn't the right choice for your vegetable garden. An extra bonus: Many of these same plants, like rue, garlic, and citronella, also repel mosquitoes. Raise the garden Raised garden beds don’t just look cool, they also serve as a physical barrier to your dog. Fido is unlikely to exert the extra energy to climb up onto raised garden beds to raise a ruckus. These beds also deter those other pet peeves: garden pests like slugs and snails. You'll also have fewer weeds to deal with, and better drainage for your plants. Raised beds can make it easier to maintain your landscape. Another option? Contract out for all your yard work. LawnStarter estimates the cost to hire someone in San Jose for monthly landscape maintenance averages $174 a month. Stake it out Don't want to redesign your garden to keep out your Ruff-ian? Keeping your dog out can be as simple as placing some short stakes throughout your vegetable plot. You can also place some prickly branches on the ground or cover the plot with a roll of chicken wire. (This is also great for keeping out the squirrels and bunnies.) None of these methods will harm your garden nor your dog, and they don’t cost much. Fifty feet of chicken wire might cost you about $40. Train your dog to stay out Teach your dog to respect your garden boundaries -- and that alone could protect your seedlings and tender plants.
Depending on how receptive your dog is, you can teach him that the garden is no place for canines. It may be as easy as finding a good series of dog training videos on YouTube or consulting a local dog trainer. Ultrasonic gadgets You won’t be able to hear it, but your dog sure can. A literal dog whistle -- an ultrasonic dog repellent -- will cost you less than $100 and keeps dogs and other animals out of your yard. There are solar-powered gadgets on the market that don’t need a source of electricity or a battery, and it can be a low-maintenance, chemical-free way to keep your four-legged gardener out of the cucumbers and prize roses. Keeping your dog out of the garden can be frustrating, especially if you discover holes that have been dug, or dog waste next to vegetables you planned to put on the dinner table. But one or a combination of these tips can help keep Sam and your fruits and vegetables apart -- and that’s one way to make gardening even more of a pleasure. Kimberly Park grew up on a farm, where she learned to love animals and the great outdoors. As an environmental activist, she has dedicated her life to educating people about gardening and eco-friendly living. She has two beagles and a Siberian husky who know better than to mess with her garden. |
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