And if you need advice about ornamental plants, check out Ciscoe’s website at https://ciscoe.com/index.html.

How to plant bare root trees

Most bare root stock trees are two or three years old. Install bare root trees early in the growing season when temperatures are above 45°F. Choose a site that can accommodate a tree’s full size and provide plenty of full sun and good air circulation. Before planting, be sure to get your soil tested by a lab before adding any other amendments. Too many nutrients can be worse than not enough. Lab-based soil tests cost about the same as a large bag of fertilizer and provide a wealth of information. Many universities offer this service.

When ready to plant, dig a hole that allows the roots to spread horizontally. The hole should be shallow enough that the graft union (where the rootstock joins the scion) is at least 2” above soil level. You should be able to see a slight flare of the trunk at the base. Planting too deeply is one of the easiest ways to kill them, though it may take a few years.

Add soil around the roots and water thoroughly rather than tamping it down. Pressing down on the soil damages delicate root hairs needed by the tree to absorb water and nutrients. Watering, or mudding in, your tree removes air pockets that can dry roots out before they ever get a chance to grow while providing the water needed to recover from the planting ordeal.

The early months

It is a good idea to install tree supports for your young tree. Whitewash the trunk and exposed branches each spring with one part white, interior latex paint, and one part water to prevent sunburn damage.

Mulch around your new tree, keeping the mulch several inches away from the tree trunk, and water regularly until the root system has become established. Remove the supports at that time. Remove all blossoms for the first two or three years to encourage root development. I know it is hard, but you will thank me later.

Seasonal fruit and nut tree care

While each species has its own needs, we can make some generalizations about seasonal fruit tree care. These practices keep your trees structurally sound and productive while reducing pest and disease problems. Pruning is best done in winter after all the leaves have fallen. The only exceptions to late-season pruning are apricots and cherries because they are susceptible to Eutypa dieback. Prune these trees during the warm, dry season. For all your other fruit and nut trees, this schedule of care should keep them healthy:

• Winter--prune for size and structure; remove dead, diseased, and rubbing limbs; remove shriveled fruits from the previous season (mummies); rake debris out from under tree; spray dormant oil to control scale insects and aphid and mite eggs; apply fungicides, as needed; whitewash exposed branches.
• Spring—spray with fungicide when twig tips first green, when buds are pink, and then every ten days until the rainy season ends; fertilize; water deeply every two to three weeks; thin fruit; install sticky barriers; feed young trees 4 ounces of urea every month of spring, mature trees get twice that amount.
• Summer—feed young trees 4 ounces and mature trees 8 ounces of urea every month of summer; water deeply every two to three weeks.
• Autumn—after harvesting, fertilize using spring rates; remove mummies and fallen fruit; rake debris out from under the tree; destroy or compost fallen leaves; apply dormant oil, Bt, or fixed copper, as needed.

So, which trees grow more quickly?

In this case, it ends up that size does matter. Full-sized trees (15-20’) live 50 years and produce the most fruit, but they can take 20 years to reach maximum production. Semi-dwarf trees (12-15’) live for 15–25 years and need 5–8 years to start producing harvestable crops. Dwarf trees (10-12’) live 15–25 years but can produce fruit in only 3-5 years. 

You can prune any of these trees to make them smaller. You can also grow dwarf and semi-dwarf fruit and nut trees in large containers.

Fruit and nut trees are investments in your landscape. You will not have a harvest the first year. And not in the second year, either. But in the long run, fruit and nut trees can produce an annual bounty that goes on for decades. Your best bet for a fast-growing fruit tree is a dwarf, grafted tree that can provide your family with bountiful harvests for many years!

These steps will reduce your workload while providing abundant fresh and delicious homegrown food.

Put your feet up and enjoy the wild!

Despite being limited to just a balcony, I now have chives, cilantro, lettuce, parsley, and spinach outdoors, and my indoor stevia is thriving. It still amazes me how sweet those leaves are. Soon, it’ll be time to plant basil and tomatoes, though all of my plants will be heading indoors because we have another move on the horizon. It should be interesting.

What's growing in your May Day garden?

My apple tree may look like nothing more than a stick right now, but I hope to see lots of leafy stems and blossoms this time next year. Of course, I will have to remove all those pretty blossoms to encourage further root development the first time they appear. That’s okay, though. I should get 15 to 20 years of blossoms and fruit from my balcony tree if I take good care of it.

This particular tree is growing in a large self-watering container. It doesn’t actually water itself, so the name is misleading. If you aren’t familiar with these pots, they have a reservoir in the bottom topped with a grate. Potting soil goes on top of the grate. Eventually, plant roots will go through the grate to access the water. This helps avoid rotted roots and fungal disease. Over-watering is a common problem with containerized plants.

As for the rest of my balcony garden, the strawberry plants I got for free through freecycle seem to be thriving, but I’m not so sure about the blackberry cutting I took last week while out walking the dogs.

Time will tell. It always does.

Except that, very often, they’ve been pushed out by lawns, streets, and construction plant deals. We can’t yet expect the companies who build our homes to consider native plants. Maybe someday. Until that day comes, it is up to us to help return at least part of our landscapes to their natural state.

How to start adding natives

​I started the process by allowing my lawn to become a meadow. This was after reading Linda King’s guest post, Gardening With Nature. The results were nothing short of delightful. First, nearly all the work was eliminated. Once my meadow was established, I didn’t have to water, weed, mow, or aerate it. I could just sit back and enjoy watching the butterflies, birds, and other critters who were attracted to my new offering. You may also want to create more space in your garden where you can, so use a top-rated tree service and landscaping company for this.

Second, creating a meadow in my landscape let me see my space with a new perspective. Instead of an artificial collection of lines, colors, and textures, my garden design looked more natural and relaxed while still providing plenty of fresh groceries. For one thing, I added native currants and hazelnuts to my tomatoes and basil, which provided food for me, and my wildlife neighbors.

The possibilities are still nearly endless…

Being on the road all the time made it hard to develop roots of my own. It's pretty hard on a garden, too. But every winter, long about February or March, when those seed catalogs start showing up, I simply couldn't help myself. The thought of fresh, flavorful tomatoes, crisp green and purple bush beans, and endless supplies of scallions and garlic danced through my head, and I was smitten.

I think my garden provided the roots and the foundation I couldn’t get any other way at that time in my life. Thousands of miles from friends and family, my life was spread across North America, my garden was my home. Wherever I happened to place my pots and planters, the act of planting, weeding, and harvesting my crops kept me sane and well-fed, both physically and emotionally.

There's something so basic, to me, about gardening. It was and is sustenance and therapy. Early each growing season, I pulled my garden from its bins under my RV and started the cycle anew. The smell of fresh earth, rich with nutrients and potential, I saw and felt my own possibilities. Compost was added, very much the way I took my daily vitamin, ensuring that the necessary materials were available for building and maintaining a healthy life.

Dirty fingernails and facial smudges never deterred me from my task. Neat little paper packets of future crops would lie on my table as I decided what would go where this time around. How deep, how tall, how much sunlight, how much water, compatibility, and competition, they are the stuff of life that ground me to the realities we all experience. Gardening is the parallel by which I run my life. Decisions must be made, options selected and others put aside.

The first green shoots look so vulnerable as I tend and protect them from marauding snails, squirrels, and foraging birds. I don't blame them for wanting what they want, any more than I blame people for their needs or their short-sightedness. It simply requires my attention and dedication, as do all the important things. The shoots became stems and I would search under rocks and debris for worms to import into my pots. Occasional weeds would be watched for just as dishonest and dangerous people must be avoided and removed from our daily routines.

New leaves and young stems strive and reach for the sun as their roots spread down and out, gathering all that they need. In the same way, I must make time for sun and water and enough space to grow, to create my stories and my life. Eventually, flower buds emerge, leaves spread and my stories are written and submitted to publishers around the globe, with hopes for both to receive the pollination they need to continue.

Tiny green tomatoes develop under drying flowers; thin bean strands push buds away to claim their rightful place. Flat garlic and tubular onion stems spike upwards, hiding all their efforts deep within the soil, a gastronomical iceberg. I was tempted to fry up some green tomatoes but I had to be patient as my crop was limited to portable pots and window boxes. Life is full of decisions about immediate and long-term gratification. Self-control and delayed gratification are valuable skills whether gardening or simply living.

My garden feeds me and fulfills me. It tethers me to the natural cycles of growth and death, seasonal changes, and truisms. Every year presents different conditions, different problems, and different rewards. Growth and harvest come in many forms, and I will forever let my garden teach me.

If you feel your mental reserves have been used up, head to the garden or pamper your potted plants. They really will help you feel better.

Plus, you get tomatoes!

How plants react to cold

Most vegetable plants react badly to freezing temperatures. The moisture held within each plant cell expands as it freezes and those cells rupture. ​

From the outside, we see blackened leaves and stems that indicate decomposition has begun. But there are degrees of cold. And the conditions that exist before temperatures drop to freezing matter, as well.

Degrees of cold

Just as water droplets will condense on your glass of summer iced tea, plant surfaces also collect dew on their surface. When temperatures drop below 36°F, that dew becomes frost. Frost can be light (28°F-32°F) or hard (below 28°F).

As temperatures drop, some winter-hardy plants protect themselves by producing more sugars. This is why cabbages and many other crops are sweeter after a light frost. The sugar lowers the freezing temperature of the water held within, making the plants more cold-tolerant. [I just read an article about how sugar beets are being used as road deicers instead of salt as a method of protecting the environment while keeping our winter roads safer.]

Plants that tolerate cold

Many plants that grow from bulbs and corms can withstand bitter temperatures. Tucked away safely in the soil, saffron crocus plants often send up green shoots before the snow even melts. What these plants can’t tolerate is excess moisture. Cold, wet plants tend to rot in the ground.

Before cold weather hits, you will want to harvest everything that will be ruined by frost. Common garden plants that are damaged by a light frost include:

Most of your fruit and nut trees will produce bigger and better harvests because of the cold as they collect chill hours throughout the winter.

Protect your garden from winter cold by giving it a blanket of aged manure and compost or a layer of straw mulch. All those tiny air pockets will act as a cold buffer. And be sure to drain those garden hoses and drip irrigation systems. You can protect frost-sensitive plants by covering them with a tarp, sheet, or umbrella. Just make sure that the cover doesn’t touch the plant or it won’t work.

You can always extend your growing season and protect frost-sensitive plants with hoophouses, row covers, and cold frames.

How cold do your winters get? Your USDA Hardiness Zone can answer that question.

It’s not just the plant oddities that appear. Many of us have come across twinned tomatoes, dancing carrots, and fasciated stems, but gardens are full of surprises. These are just a few of mine.

Mobile molds

​I never gave mold much thought before gardening, other than to make sure it never took up residence in my bathroom. I knew that mold could spread, but it never occurred to me that some molds, specifically slime molds, can move across areas intact. The dog vomit slime mold pictured below did just that. On the first day, it was a bright yellow blob above and to the left of a seashell. On the second day, my slime mold had changed color and started to engulf said seashell. I certainly didn’t expect that!

I was surprised to learn that the sugary brown spots on ripe bananas glow when illuminated with a blacklight. You can use one of those penlights that tell you if a dollar bill is counterfeit.

Intriguing insects

Baby praying mantis, napping bees, and ambling grubs can all be surprise discoveries if you take the time to look for them.

Even watching a simple grub walking can surprise you. 

Hawk rescue

I caged my fruit and nut trees to protect against bird, squirrel, and rat damage. Sometimes, small birds would still find their way into the tree cages. Once, a Cooper’s hawk managed to get in. I must assume he was trying to get at the songbird since the figs probably didn't appeal to him. I used my old wildlife rehabilitator skills to capture and release the magnificent bird properly. The songbird escaped on its own.

In the end, the closer you look, the more you see. And gardening never ceases to amaze and surprise me.

What has surprised you in the garden?

Most plant catastrophes occur when plants are grown in containers, though not always. These disasters can occur suddenly or slowly over time.

​Crashing to the ground

Potted plants are known to fall. A gust of wind, an exuberant pet, or a stray elbow can tip the scales of balance, sending a plant crashing to the ground. Containers are usually lost in these scenarios. Luckily, most plants can survive a fall. Discard the broken pottery, or you can save the pieces to cover the drainage hole in other containers. [Note: do not add a layer of shards, rocks, or gravel to the bottom of a planting container. This wastes space better dedicated to soil. A shard over the hole simply reduces soil loss.]

You may want to spread out a couple of sheets of newspaper before you begin. Gently collect your fallen plant and place it on the newspaper. Then you can sweep up the soil and debris, placing it on the newspaper, as well. This is an excellent opportunity to examine the roots of your fallen plant for signs of pests and disease. You may also find that your plant has become root bound. In that cases, you can either trim back the roots or provide it with a larger pot. If pests or diseases are present, you may want to shake off any soil and toss that soil in the trash. Wash the root system under running water. Remove any damaged or diseased roots before repotting. And remember, rather than tamping the soil down when planting, which only damages valuable root hairs, mud in your plant with water.

Drowning

One of the most common causes of plant disasters is overwatering. It’s an honest mistake. The top of the soil looks dry. We want to care for our plants, so we water them. And then we water them again. And again. They start wilting, so we water them some more. [Plants can wilt because of too much or too little water.] What we don’t always realize is that the soil’s macropores and micropores can hold a lot of water. Those spaces are also supposed to hold air but the air is pushed out when too much water is present. Overwatering not only drowns and suffocates our plants, but it sets the stage for several fungal diseases and invites fungus gnats. More on insects below. The easiest solution to overwatering is to let plants dry out more often, provide good drainage, and invest in an inexpensive moisture meter.

Underwatering

On the flip side, failing to water a plant can certainly lead to disaster. Without water, plants cannot perform photosynthesis or remain upright for long. Put plant watering on a regular schedule that keeps the soil moist enough, but not too much. Again, a moisture meter is helpful. And if you know you are going to be away for a while, avoid the DIY idea of using diaper crystals to moisten your plants. It’s a bad idea. One easy self-watering idea is to place a water bottle next to the plant and lay a thin strip of cloth, paper towel, or yarn from the bottom of the water bottle to the planting soil. The soil will draw the water up the strip for as long as water is available.

Insect invasions

Stray stink bugs and aphid clusters are common when working with plants, but sometimes they can get out of control. This is especially true for indoor plants where pests are protected from their natural predators. Here is a list of the most common indoor pest invaders and the ways to manage them.

• Brown scale can be wiped off leaves with a damp paper towel.
• Fungus gnats can be killed with crumbled mosquito dunks and are attracted to yellow sticky sheets.
• Mealybugs can be killed with a Q-tip dipped in alcohol.
• Red spider mites can be washed off plants in the shower or with a hose.
• Thrips are attracted to blue sticky sheets.
• Whiteflies are attracted to yellow sticky sheets and their egg spirals can be wiped off with a damp paper towel.

 
Many insect invasions can be thwarted by placing new plants into quarantine when they first arrive.

My first gardening experience is with me still. It taught me patience, nurturing, and good record-keeping. It left me with a sense of awe about the growing process.

What was your first gardening experience?

When I garden, I eat better, sleep better, and feel better. Gardening makes me a better version of myself.

Why do you garden?

Peak of freshness

We prefer harvesting and enjoying the fruits of our labor at their peak of freshness and sweetness. This is why my little yellow cherry tomatoes and groundcherries rarely make it into the house. Of course, if we ate everything as soon as it ripened, we wouldn’t have anything left for later, and we’d probably have a stomachache.

Temperature, humidity, and time are the major factors determining freshness when it comes to fruits and vegetables. For any harvest that isn’t eaten right away, there are several things you can do to help maintain flavor and quality.

Location, location, location

Where fruits and vegetables are stored makes a big difference in how long they stay fresh. Some produce belongs on your countertop and some need a dry, cool, dark place. Other fruits and vegetables will stay their best in the crisper drawer, while others are best stored on a refrigerator shelf. We’ll get to the particulars in a moment.

Packaging

Another freshness factor revolves around the packaging materials used. This has a lot to do with ethylene gas. Ethylene gas is the chemical responsible for ripening, and some fruits produce more than others, while others are very sensitive to the ethylene produced by their neighbors. Apples, bananas, celery, and onions produce a lot of ethylene gas and should be stored away from other fruits and vegetables. Brussels sprouts, broccoli, carrots, green beans, and unripe bananas are very ethylene-sensitive and require protection. You may want to consider designating one crisper drawer for non-ethylene-sensitive produce, such as berries and citrus.

That protection normally comes in the form of plastic bags and reusable containers. One of my new faves when it comes to food storage is beeswax wraps. They are cloth dipped in beeswax. They work better than I expected, and they’re good for the environment. Other containers include paper bags and damp paper towels, depending on the crop. The best way to keep celery fresh is to wrap it in a paper towel and then aluminum foil.

Contrary to what you might expect, it is better if you do not wash produce before storing it. While you certainly want to brush off any soil or debris, it is better to hold off on washing until you are ready to use it. Any residual water sets the stage for rot, so be sure to dry anything you have to wash before storing. You can also extend the life of your cilantro and asparagus by storing them upright in the fridge with the cut ends in water. And remove carrot, radish, and other leafy tops before storing.

Temperature matters

People used ice to keep food from going bad for a very long time. The first refrigerator was built in 1834. Crisper drawers were invented one year later. Crisper drawers work by maintaining higher humidity levels than are found in the rest of the refrigerator. Most crisper drawers have closeable vents. When the vent is shut, humidity is higher. This is ideal for your leafy greens. When that vent is open, humidity levels drop. This is better for things like apples and pears. Having the vent open also releases some of the ethylene gas that speeds ripening.

Perishable food is best stored at 37°F to 41°F (3°C to 5°C). These cooler temperatures reduce bacterial growth, thereby slowing rot and decomposition. That’s why refrigerators are such a good idea. But your fridge’s temperatures vary.

Refrigerators have a variety of temperature zones. The front of the top shelf and the meat drawer are the coldest, making them the best places for your eggs, butter, and meat. Your apples will last the longest if stored on the back of the top shelf. The back of the middle shelf is colder than the front, making it a good place for leftovers, while the front of the middle shelf is ideal for melons and beans. The back of the bottom shelf is also a good long-term storage spot, but the front of this shelf is often the warmest part of your fridge, making it ideal for corn, mushrooms, and other cold-sensitive produce. As for the door, higher means warmer, and lower means colder.

But you can take your passion for gardening and your ideals and get them moving in the right direction by identifying and performing short-term goals regularly and consistently. Baby steps. Say you want a lush, productive blueberry hedge? Start by identifying the best location. Clear away the weeds. Top-dress the area with aged manure and compost. Protect the space with mulch. Conduct research about the best varieties for your microclimate. Eventually, you will install your blueberry plants. And, after a few years and regular care, your blueberry hedge will become a reality. It won’t happen overnight, but those baby steps can and will get you there.

Little doesn’t mean insignificant

Unless we’re talking about diamonds (and babies), small things are often seen as less-than. The truth is, it’s the little things, done repeatedly, that create practically every success. None of us is perfectly fit two months after our New Year's’ resolutions are made. But try adding squats while your microwave is running, or 10 little jumping jacks each time you use the bathroom and see just how much these tiny acts of fitness add up over time. The trick is making these baby steps easy enough to do that there’s no desire to avoid them.

Trying to rid your yard of every weed in a single day is a Herculean task that may make you throw up your hands in despair and quit gardening altogether. Weeding your garden on a regular rotation will never get rid of all your weeds (nothing can do that short of Agent Oranging the neighborhood). What it will do is ensure that you are checking on each area of your garden regularly and removing most of the weeds. Over time, the weeds will be less of a problem and you won’t experience burn-out.

Rhubarb

I’m only including rhubarb because everyone seems to have heard how toxic their leaves are. They do contain oxalic acid. It’s also true that oxalic acid can cause cramps and interfere with breathing and heartbeats. It can also cause coma and death, but you’d have to eat a profound amount of rhubarb leaves to have a problem.

Sweet potatoes

Sweet potatoes can produce toxins used in defense against injury, insect feeding, and other stresses. One of these toxins, ipomeamarone, makes your sweet potatoes taste bitter. It can also kill you, so don’t eat bitter-tasting sweet potatoes and always cut out and discard damaged areas.

Zucchini

Bitter-tasting zucchinis may contain chemicals known as cucurbitacins. Cucurbitacins cause something called “toxic squash syndrome”. Symptoms of this condition include severe digestive upset followed by hair loss, weeks after the fact. How weird is that?

With all these potential toxins in our food, what’s a gardener to do?

First of all, recognize that you would have to eat an awful lot of most of these plants to cause any real harm. Second, keeping your plants healthy with proper fertilizing, irrigation, and pest and disease control reduces their need for self-defense.

You can protect yourself and your family by discarding any produce that is badly damaged or moldy and cooking your food properly.

Failure to thrive is not a disease. It is a symptom. And most of us have seen it happen in our gardens or patios. Scraggly stems, too few leaves, little or no fruit or flowers, and overall weakness are all signs of failing to thrive. You can help your plant return to good health once you know the cause. Failure to thrive is usually an environmental or biological issue.

Biological causes of failure to thrive

Some plants are born weak. It can be because the seed was old, or germination occurred too early in the season while temperatures were too cold. In both cases, the seedling had to put out more energy than it could afford, too early in its growth, and may never recover fully. Other biological causes of failure to thrive include diseases and improper planting.

You can prevent many problems with these tips:

• Use certified pest- and disease-free seeds and seedlings.
• Quarantine new plants.
• Plant seeds at the proper depth.
• Wait for temperatures to be warm enough.
• Inspect root systems of bare root trees before planting for signs of roots that may girdle the young tree.
• Resist the urge to tamp down the soil when planting seeds and seedlings. Instead, mud them in with water.
• Install plants with an eye to their mature size.
• Send a soil sample to a lab for testing and only add what is needed and nothing more.
• Avoid overhead watering or water early in the day.
• Prune plants for good airflow.
• Keep your pruning tools sharp and sanitize them regularly.

Environmental causes behind a failure to thrive

Plants cannot leave their environment, so they deal with wherever they are. Several environmental conditions keep plants from thriving:

• Plants installed in an unsuitable microclimate or USDA Hardiness Zone rarely thrive.
• The wrong size container can choke a root system. A root bound plant rarely grows well.
• Too much or too little water is a common environmental problem, easily corrected with an inexpensive moisture meter. Trees and shrubs, especially, need a lot of water when establishing a root system.
• Too much competition from nearby plants can make life hard for more timid, slow-growing plants. At the same time, plants rarely grow in isolation. Find a good balance between the two extremes.
• The wrong timing, intensity, or duration of sun exposure can cause plants to falter.
• Sap-sucking insects, such as aphids, mealybugs, and whiteflies, can starve plants into poor growth. Sticky sheets are an inexpensive control measure.
• Poor plant nutrition in the form of too much, too little, or nutrient imbalances can wreak havoc on plant health. Only a lab-based soil test can give you the information you need to know if your plants are getting what they need. Luckily, those tests are affordable.
• Mechanical damage from weedwackers, mowers, children, pets, birds, mice, rats, squirrels, and the rest can damage a plant to the point of no return.

Drastic measures

In some cases, you have to take more drastic measures. After all your other treatments and corrections have failed, it is time to dig up or unpot your plants and get to the root of the problem. You will want to work over a tarp or a large container. Either dig up your problem plant or remove it from its container. Shake the soil from the roots and wash them. Root washing is an excellent way to see what is going on underground. Prune out any damaged, mushy, broken, or infected roots. Set the root ball in a bucket of water and examine the soil. Look for signs of insect pupae, grubs, root maggots, root weevils, wireworms, cutworms, and other soil-dwelling pests.

Smell the soil. Does it smell rich and earthy? Or does it smell funky, like old gym socks? Healthy soil contains earthworms and zillions of microorganisms. And it smells like good earth. Less-than-ideal soil smells like something rotten. If that’s the case, toss it in the trash and give your patient some fresh potting soil. Until your plant is thriving, if possible, keep it in a container in a protected location during its recovery.

This type of damage is occurring in food production around the world, too. An article published by Science Daily tells us that fully one-third of the world’s food crops are at risk because of climate change. Master Gardeners, farmers, and researchers around the world are trying to find out what works and what doesn’t under these new conditions.

What changes, if any, have you seen in your garden over the past few years? Have temperature changes altered what and how you grow?

Sounds of nature

I do miss the sounds of the hens and the sight of bees busily going to and fro, but Seattle isn’t without its’ sights and sounds of nature. Instead of egg songs, I hear the cry of seagulls and cawing crows. Pigeons are common, but not on my 7th-floor balcony. I have seen various bees and mayflies. And I am not without a garden.

Choosing apartment plants

Choosing which plants to bring and which to leave behind took some thought. Aside from physically moving the plants, I had to decide how much space to dedicate to them. Herbs were my first choice. The chives, oregano, peppermint, stevia, summer savory, and thyme came with me. I transplanted all my saffron crocus bulbs into various pots of succulents. And I brought my strawberry pot planted with groundcherries. Next year, I may make room for some tomatoes or squash. I have to finish unpacking first.

Apartment gardening

Apartment gardening poses some unique challenges and opportunities. As always, light and temperature are critical factors. Living in a corner unit in a southwest-facing building, we get plenty of light. Since we have a balcony, I can give my plants access to pollinators.

Water conservation isn’t the same in Seattle as in California, but I still use the dregs from my dogs’ water bowl to water my plants. I figure the bits of dog food and who knows what else might help feed my apartment plants. Without a compost pile, I’ll have to rethink how I feed them. (The plants, not the dogs.)

If you’ve gardened in an apartment, what advice do you have for me, the New Kid on the block?

Video of swarming honey bees on leaf covered tree branch

It is good to be a beekeeper. Long live the queen.

By looking at each growing space as having a new beginning, I can do a better job of making sure it has everything it needs to grow well. I guess the same is true for us, eh? We all need the right amounts of food, plenty of water, enough sunlight, and a gentle environment in which to grow.
 
May you thrive in this new year.