June

Longer days of sun
Burst forth fruits and leaves
Savory delights

Immature almonds (Kate Russell)

June is a busy month in the garden. Rising temperatures and strong growth increase the need for irrigation. Sowbugs and other pests seem to be everywhere. Fruits, flowers, and mulch are the name of the game when it comes to June garden chores.

Ants & aphids

The bane of all gardeners, aphids are in full force in June. You may see ant trails in trees or curled leaves. Ants and aphids have a mutually beneficial relationship that may not kill garden plants, but they can carry diseases that will. They can also make fruit and vegetables inedible. Monitor for ants and aphids at least twice a week. If ant trails are seen, wrap tree trunks with tape and apply sticky barriers. This sticky goo will prevent ants form protecting and farming the aphids and halt the spread of many diseases. Aphid populations can then be reduced with a powerful spray from the hose. Adding plants that attract beneficial insects will also curb aphid populations.

Oleander aphids on milkweed (Kate Russell)

Heavy armored scale infestation (Kate Russell)

Armored scale

Armored scale are parasitic insects that suck the living sap from shrubs and trees. In June, these difficult to control pests are in a crawler stage that is easier to defeat. Monitor plants for armored scale infestations. Apply horticultural oil (not dormant oil) every month in summer to affected plants.

Bees

Bees are everywhere you look, collecting pollen and nectar for their families (and pollinating nearly all of our garden crops). If you see a swarm, don’t panic. Swarming bees are surprisingly docile. Their bellies are full of honey and they are simply looking for a new home. Contact your local Bee Guild or Master Gardeners for information on swarm collection. Under no circumstances should honey bee swarms be sprayed with insecticides. 

Honey bee swarm (Kate Russell)

Honey bees continue to struggle and research on colony collapse disorder is ongoing. Recent findings have shown that systemic pesticides made with neonicotinoids are adding to the threat against native bees, but not honey bees. You can do your part to help our pollinators (and protect our honey supply) by avoiding the use of insecticides and pesticides when bees are present. Add some flowering native plants to your landscape, as well, to help protect local, native bees. They look lovely, too!

Harmless male carpenter bee (Kate Russell)

Blossom end rot (Kate Russell)

Blossom end rot

Do you see brown depressions on the bottom of your tomatoes? Blossom end rot is caused by the combined effects of insufficient  calcium and irregular watering. Since most soils have adequate calcium, erratic irrigation is the usual culprit. Without regular watering, the calcium in the soil cannot help the plant. Mulching can help. Adding eggshells* to your soil does not help. Water tomatoes regularly, allowing the soil to dry out between waterings.

Blackened twigs & branches

If twigs and branches are turning dark or burnt looking, you have a problem. Generally, the damage starts at the tips and moves toward the body of the plant. This can either be dieback or fireblight. In either case, all you can do is remove the damaged tissue, cutting well below the visible infection and cleaning your clippers with disinfectant between each cut. Take a close look at the cut to make sure healthy tissue is visible. To reduce the chance of these fungal diseases attacking fruit trees in June, reduce or halt watering during the bloom and avoid adding nitrogen. Nitrogen stimulates new growth that is especially vulnerable to infection.


​*Contrary to popular belief, eggshells are too hard to properly breakdown in the soil on their own in a reasonable period of time. Eggshells do not dissolve in water and must be ground very finely to have an impact on the soil. If you suspect insufficient calcium, send out a sample for  a soil test.

Apple infected with fireblight (Kate Russell)

Young limes (Kate Russell)

Citrus

In California, most soils contain adequate nutrients for citrus growth, except nitrogen. One-year old trees will need 1/10 of a pound of nitrogen, while mature trees need approximately 1-1/2 pounds. These amounts should be divided into three different feedings in April, June and August. Blood meal is an excellent source of nitrogen, without all the fillers, or you can purchase a balanced product that contains zinc. Spread the fertilizer evenly over the entire root area and water in.

QUARANTINE WARNING: MOST OF SANTA CLARA COUNTY IS UNDER QUARANTINE FOR CITRUS, DUE TO THE ASIAN CITRUS PSYLLID. CHECK THIS MAP TO SEE IF YOU ARE AFFECTED.

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Container plants

Container planting is an excellent way to garden in small spaces and to add art and color to the landscape. However, June’s high temperatures can dry out containers very rapidly. To make matters worse, frequent irrigation can also leach out nutrients. It’s a dilemma. Gardeners can reduce these problems by using glazed clay pots, which dry out more slowly than unglazed pots. Dark plastic containers should be avoided because they can get too hot and cook the roots. Good drainage is important, but you can help container plants hang on to water and nutrients by using potting soil, rather than planting mix. Also, be sure to get those pots off hot concrete. By creating even a little air space under the pots, you can help them stay cool.

Horseradish (Kate Russell)

Damaged fruit

June usually provides an abundance of fruit. If damaged fruit is seen, take a closer look. If the fruit looks chewed on, it’s probably rats or squirrels. Personally, I use Bobbex-R to deter these destructive, disease-carrying pests. My dogs enjoy helping out, too! I also use traps to kill rats. It’s a bit disgusting, but it works.

Rubber snake in apple tree (Kate Russell)

Does the fruit show stab marks? That’s usually caused by birds. The only way to keep birds out of fruit trees is with netting or a tree cage. The netting is a royal pain to put up and take down, but it’s surprisingly easy to build a permanent tree cage. Most birds will only take a bite or two out of dozens of fruits, ruining a crop. Netting placed directly on the plant does not protect fruit near the netting. I also discourage birds by hanging old CDs in my fruit trees and mounting shiny pinwheels in various places. Breezes cause them to spin and reflect light, which seems to alarm the birds some of the time.


​I also have a rubber snake that I move around the property. I think it scares more guests than birds, but it might help, too.

Deadheading

Spent ornamental flowers should be removed to stimulate new growth. When deadheading, don’t clip just below the flower. Instead, look down the stem for a leaf connection that shows bud growth. June deadheading is also a good time to prune for improved shape, structure and air flow.

Deadheading lavender (Kate Russell)

Earwig (Kate Russell)

Earwigs

Another common pest, earwigs are second only to slugs and snails in garden destruction. Even though they eat aphids, the damage they cause doesn’t balance out. Trap earwigs in moist, tightly rolled newspaper or cardboard tubes. Earwigs will gather in these bundles after their nightly feeding and you can toss them in the trash in the morning or throw them in with your chickens.

Fruit drop and fruit thinning

Don't be concerned if your fruit trees suddenly drop a majority of their blossoms or immature fruits. This normal behavior, called June drop or blossom drop, prevents trees from producing more fruit than they can support. To help your trees create the highest quality and best sized fruit, this is the time to thin fruits.


​Irrigation

If you haven’t already, June is a good time to check irrigation systems for leaks. Drip systems should be flushed and emitters checked for clogs. This is also a good time to test to see where, exactly, sprinklers are spraying and where they are not. There’s no sense in wasting precious water in urban drool and the spray should never hit tree trunks.


​Mulch

Mulching is one of the best things you can do in the garden, especially in June. Mulching stabilizes soil temperatures, reduces weeds, and helps the soil retain moisture. Aged compost, placed on top of the soil, is mulch. Tree trimmings make excellent mulch and they can be acquired for free from tree trimming companies! As mulch breaks down, it adds valuable nutrients to the soil and improves soil structure. Just make sure that mulch is kept away from tree trunks and that it isn’t too thick. Generally speaking, a layer of 3 inches is just right. Too much mulch can interfere with gas exchanges.


​Planting

If you haven't started already, June is an excellent time to plant those heat-loving cucumbers, peppers, squashes, tomatoes, eggplants, and melons. Also, you can create an ongoing harvest by succession planting radishes, beans, and other determinant crops.

Roses

As roses give us their lovely June blooms, they may also put out suckers. Most modern roses are actually grafted onto hardy root stock that will not produce those lovely flowers. If new growth is emerging from underground, rip them out. Desirable canes, on the other hand, will grow out of aboveground buds and should be allowed to grow (assuming they won’t result in crossed canes or poor air flow. Black spot, rust, and powdery mildew are common fungal diseases of roses. Proper pruning can reduce the chances of these diseases occurring. Diseased leaves should be removed and discarded.

Rose (Kate Russell)

​Be sure to put on your sunscreen, wear a hat, and keep those tools clean and sharp as you enjoy the garden in June!