Category: Deadheading

June

6/1/2015

Longer days of sun
Burst forth fruits and leaves
Savory delights

Close-up of clusters of immature almonds and leaves attached to stems.

Immature almonds (Kate Russell)

June is a busy month in the garden. Rising temperatures and strong growth increase the need for irrigation. Sowbugs and other pests seem to be everywhere. Fruits, flowers, and mulch are the name of the game when it comes to June garden chores.

Ants & aphids

The bane of all gardeners, aphids are in full force in June. You may see ant trails in trees or curled leaves. Ants and aphids have a mutually beneficial relationship that may not kill garden plants, but they can carry diseases that will. They can also make fruit and vegetables inedible. Monitor for ants and aphids at least twice a week. If ant trails are seen, wrap tree trunks with tape and apply sticky barriers. This sticky goo will prevent ants form protecting and farming the aphids and halt the spread of many diseases. Aphid populations can then be reduced with a powerful spray from the hose. Adding plants that attract beneficial insects will also curb aphid populations.

Close-up of milkweed stem covered with bright yellow oleander aphids.

Oleander aphids on milkweed (Kate Russell)

Close-up of twig covered with brown, dome-shaped armoured scale insects.

Heavy armored scale infestation (Kate Russell)

Armored scale

Armored scale are parasitic insects that suck the living sap from shrubs and trees. In June, these difficult to control pests are in a crawler stage that is easier to defeat. Monitor plants for armored scale infestations. Apply horticultural oil (not dormant oil) every month in summer to affected plants.

Bees

Bees are everywhere you look, collecting pollen and nectar for their families (and pollinating nearly all of our garden crops). If you see a swarm, don’t panic. Swarming bees are surprisingly docile. Their bellies are full of honey and they are simply looking for a new home. Contact your local Bee Guild or Master Gardeners for information on swarm collection. Under no circumstances should honey bee swarms be sprayed with insecticides.

Close-up of honey bees clustering on a tree branch, with some leaves exposed.

Honey bee swarm (Kate Russell)

Honey bees continue to struggle and research on colony collapse disorder is ongoing. Recent findings have shown that systemic pesticides made with neonicotinoids are adding to the threat against native bees, but not honey bees. You can do your part to help our pollinators (and protect our honey supply) by avoiding the use of insecticides and pesticides when bees are present. Add some flowering native plants to your landscape, as well, to help protect local, native bees. They look lovely, too!

Harmless male carpenter bee (Kate Russell)

Red tomato with brown, leathery skin at the blossom end.

Blossom end rot (Kate Russell)

Blossom end rot

Do you see brown depressions on the bottom of your tomatoes? Blossom end rot is caused by the combined effects of insufficient calcium and irregular watering. Since most soils have adequate calcium, erratic irrigation is the usual culprit. Without regular watering, the calcium in the soil cannot help the plant. Mulching can help. Adding eggshells* to your soil does not help. Water tomatoes regularly, allowing the soil to dry out between waterings.

Blackened twigs & branches

If twigs and branches are turning dark or burnt looking, you have a problem. Generally, the damage starts at the tips and moves toward the body of the plant. This can either be dieback or fireblight. In either case, all you can do is remove the damaged tissue, cutting well below the visible infection and cleaning your clippers with disinfectant between each cut. Take a close look at the cut to make sure healthy tissue is visible. To reduce the chance of these fungal diseases attacking fruit trees in June, reduce or halt watering during the bloom and avoid adding nitrogen. Nitrogen stimulates new growth that is especially vulnerable to infection.

*Contrary to popular belief, eggshells are too hard to properly breakdown in the soil on their own in a reasonable period of time. Eggshells do not dissolve in water and must be ground very finely to have an impact on the soil. If you suspect insufficient calcium, send out a sample for a soil test.

Apple twig on wooden table. The twig is curled over at the top and all the leaves are darkened and dry, exhibiting symptoms of fireblight.

Apple infected with fireblight (Kate Russell)

Close-up of lime leaves and immature fruit.

Young limes (Kate Russell)

Citrus

In California, most soils contain adequate nutrients for citrus growth, except nitrogen. One-year old trees will need 1/10 of a pound of nitrogen, while mature trees need approximately 1-1/2 pounds. These amounts should be divided into three different feedings in April, June and August. Blood meal is an excellent source of nitrogen, without all the fillers, or you can purchase a balanced product that contains zinc. Spread the fertilizer evenly over the entire root area and water in.

QUARANTINE WARNING: MOST OF SANTA CLARA COUNTY IS UNDER QUARANTINE FOR CITRUS, DUE TO THE ASIAN CITRUS PSYLLID. CHECK THIS MAP TO SEE IF YOU ARE AFFECTED.

Container plants

Container planting is an excellent way to garden in small spaces and to add art and color to the landscape. However, June’s high temperatures can dry out containers very rapidly. To make matters worse, frequent irrigation can also leach out nutrients. It’s a dilemma. Gardeners can reduce these problems by using glazed clay pots, which dry out more slowly than unglazed pots. Dark plastic containers should be avoided because they can get too hot and cook the roots. Good drainage is important, but you can help container plants hang on to water and nutrients by using potting soil, rather than planting mix. Also, be sure to get those pots off hot concrete. By creating even a little air space under the pots, you can help them stay cool.

Large orange planter with broad green horseradish leaves seen growing in the pot.

Horseradish (Kate Russell)

Damaged fruit

June usually provides an abundance of fruit. If damaged fruit is seen, take a closer look. If the fruit looks chewed on, it’s probably rats or squirrels. Personally, I use Bobbex-R to deter these destructive, disease-carrying pests. My dogs enjoy helping out, too! I also use traps to kill rats. It’s a bit disgusting, but it works.

Whitewashed trunk and lower branches of apple tree draped with a large rubber snake to temporarily scare away birds

Rubber snake in apple tree (Kate Russell)

Does the fruit show stab marks? That’s usually caused by birds. The only way to keep birds out of fruit trees is with netting or a tree cage. The netting is a royal pain to put up and take down, but it’s surprisingly easy to build a permanent tree cage. Most birds will only take a bite or two out of dozens of fruits, ruining a crop. Netting placed directly on the plant does not protect fruit near the netting. I also discourage birds by hanging old CDs in my fruit trees and mounting shiny pinwheels in various places. Breezes cause them to spin and reflect light, which seems to alarm the birds some of the time.

I also have a rubber snake that I move around the property. I think it scares more guests than birds, but it might help, too.

Deadheading

Spent ornamental flowers should be removed to stimulate new growth. When deadheading, don’t clip just below the flower. Instead, look down the stem for a leaf connection that shows bud growth. June deadheading is also a good time to prune for improved shape, structure and air flow.

Cluster of flowering French lavender with hand holding pruners on stem, above a leaf pair, demonstrating where to deadhead.

Deadheading lavender (Kate Russell)

Earwig (Kate Russell)

Earwigs

Another common pest, earwigs are second only to slugs and snails in garden destruction. Even though they eat aphids, the damage they cause doesn’t balance out. Trap earwigs in moist, tightly rolled newspaper or cardboard tubes. Earwigs will gather in these bundles after their nightly feeding and you can toss them in the trash in the morning or throw them in with your chickens.

Fruit drop and fruit thinning

Don't be concerned if your fruit trees suddenly drop a majority of their blossoms or immature fruits. This normal behavior, called June drop or blossom drop, prevents trees from producing more fruit than they can support. To help your trees create the highest quality and best sized fruit, this is the time to thin fruits.

Irrigation

If you haven’t already, June is a good time to check irrigation systems for leaks. Drip systems should be flushed and emitters checked for clogs. This is also a good time to test to see where, exactly, sprinklers are spraying and where they are not. There’s no sense in wasting precious water in urban drool and the spray should never hit tree trunks.

Mulch

Mulching is one of the best things you can do in the garden, especially in June. Mulching stabilizes soil temperatures, reduces weeds, and helps the soil retain moisture. Aged compost, placed on top of the soil, is mulch. Tree trimmings make excellent mulch and they can be acquired for free from tree trimming companies! As mulch breaks down, it adds valuable nutrients to the soil and improves soil structure. Just make sure that mulch is kept away from tree trunks and that it isn’t too thick. Generally speaking, a layer of 3 inches is just right. Too much mulch can interfere with gas exchanges.

Planting

If you haven't started already, June is an excellent time to plant those heat-loving cucumbers, peppers, squashes, tomatoes, eggplants, and melons. Also, you can create an ongoing harvest by succession planting radishes, beans, and other determinant crops.

Roses

As roses give us their lovely June blooms, they may also put out suckers. Most modern roses are actually grafted onto hardy root stock that will not produce those lovely flowers. If new growth is emerging from underground, rip them out. Desirable canes, on the other hand, will grow out of aboveground buds and should be allowed to grow (assuming they won’t result in crossed canes or poor air flow. Black spot, rust, and powdery mildew are common fungal diseases of roses. Proper pruning can reduce the chances of these diseases occurring. Diseased leaves should be removed and discarded.

Rose (Kate Russell)

Be sure to put on your sunscreen, wear a hat, and keep those tools clean and sharp as you enjoy the garden in June!

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April

4/1/2015

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April chirps and sings
Splitting shells and seeds and blooms
Riotous greening

A wooden picnic bench is covered with flats of small planting containers filled with soil and showing signs of new seedling growth. Pink roses, a containerized baby stone pine tree, and a wooden fence are seen in the background.

Seedlings in spring (Kate Russell)

April is a busy month in most gardens. With scorching summers on a not-too-distant horizon, flowers, weeds, and everything else seem to be striding toward sunlight. Cool nights may hold this rampant growth in check for another week or two, but most gardeners have plenty of April garden tasks to keep them occupied.

It’s planting time!

Temperatures are nearing or have reached the point when gardeners can plant most herbs, leafy greens, and vegetables. Lettuce, arugula, spinach, bok choy, basil, parsley, cilantro, and radishes can be planted every couple of weeks in succession for a continuous harvest until temperatures get too hot.

In warmer regions, potatoes, bush and pole beans, corn, cucumber, summer and winter squash, and tomato seeds can be planted now. Be sure to read packet directions for planting depth, spacing, and sun requirements for the best results. [If you haven't already, email me for a customized planting chart based on your USDA Hardiness Zone.]

Planting container is filled with young arugula plants.

Arugula grows well in containers (Kate Russell)

Codling moth

Codling moth larvae can devastate apple, plum, pear, and walnut crops. The larvae pierce the fruit and burrow into its core, where it then feeds on the fruit, making it inedible. On apples, look for tiny dimples with a small hole in the center. These holes are usually filled with frass (bug poop). Trees should be monitored every week for signs of infestation. Infested fruit should be removed and discarded, to break the codling moth life cycle. Pheromone traps can be hung in isolated trees, but you need to understand that these traps attract codling moths to the tree. The traps are really a population monitoring device, not a control measure. Fruit can be bagged for protection, but this is a very labor-intensive method. Kaolin clay application is an excellent organic control method. Heavy infestations may require the use of pesticides before fruit is affected.

Deadheading

As flowers begin blooming, you can increase production by removing spent blooms.This works equally well for roses and artichokes. Take a look at buds further down the stem and clip just above a bud that points in the direction you want the new growth to go. Deadheading can help the plant structurally and it allows for good airflow, as well as stimulate new flower development.

Fungal diseases

Spring rains bring moisture that can cause many fungal diseases. Anthracnose, brown spot, powdery mildew, sooty mold, and verticillium wilt should all be watched for and treated. Many of these conditions can be avoided with pruning that allows good air flow and irrigation that does not come from overhead. Overhead watering splashes millions of fungal spores onto uninfected plants, spreading the disease (plus, it wastes water through evaporation).

Irrigation & greywater

As temperatures rise, irrigation becomes more important. Containers and raised beds will begin to dry out and need to be checked every day. If the irrigation system wasn’t inspected in March, be sure to do it now. Greywater, from sinks, washing machines, and rain barrels can be used to irrigate ornamentals and lawns. I also use water collected from the shower, as it heats up, to water edibles.

Mosquitoes

Before you get too excited about planting, take a few minutes to inspect your property for mosquito breeding grounds. Mosquito larvae can grow in as little as one tablespoon of water. Birdbaths, rain barrels, clogged rain gutters, and planter pot saucers can all harbor these pests. Mosquito dunks, also available as granular bits, contain a bacteria, Bacillus thuringiensis israelensis (Bt.i), that is deadly to mosquito larvae but harmless against all other living things. You can also use Bt.i against fungus gnats. Mosquitofish can also be used to reduce mosquito populations.

Mulch

To add nutrients, reduce weeds, and help retain moisture, nothing beats mulch. Wood chips and aged compost both make excellent mulch. You can request free arborist chips from local tree trimmers. To stop weeds from growing, the mulch should be 4" to 6” thick. I used to recommend a layer of cardboard or newspaper be placed underneath, but then I learned that these materials attract termites and voles. Cardboard also slows gas and water exchanges. Be sure to keep mulch at least 8” away from tree and shrub trunks, to avoid fungal diseases, such as crown rot and butt rot.

Oranges

If you have navel orange trees, the crop will be ripening in April. Oranges left on the tree too long will dry out and become inedible. Instead, harvest the entire crop by the end of the month and you can make my new favorites, Cardamom Orange Marmalade, Orange Cumin Chutney, and Spiced Oranges. Once canned, these delicious condiments make lovely gifts. You’ll want to be sure to save plenty for yourself - it’s that good!

Valencia oranges will ripen during the summer and they make excellent juice. April is a good time to add nitrogen for orange trees. One-year-old trees will need 1/10 of a pound of nitrogen, while mature trees need approximately 1-1/2 pounds. These amounts should be divided into three different feedings in April, June, and August. Blood meal is an excellent source of nitrogen, without all the fillers.

QUARANTINE WARNING: MOST OF SANTA CLARA COUNTY IS UNDER QUARANTINE FOR CITRUS, DUE TO THE ASIAN CITRUS PSYLLID. CHECK THIS MAP TO SEE IF YOU ARE AFFECTED. ALSO, BE ON THE LOOKOUT FOR ORIENTAL FRUIT FLIES. IF EITHER PEST IS SEEN, PLEASE CALL THE PEST HOTLINE AT 1-800-491-1899.

Perennial edibles

Fennel, rhubarb, and asparagus, as well as fruit and nut trees, provide many years of food production and April is a good time to plant. These plants will take up a good amount of space, so be sure to keep mature sizes in mind.

Plum bud gall mite

As of January 2019, we have a new pest in northern California. Be on the lookout for abnormal growths, or galls, on almond, apricot, plum, pluot, and other fruit and nut trees. These tiny eriophyid mites are only 1/100th of an inch long. If you have a 20x hand lens, you may be able to see them. They can be translucent yellow, pink, white, or purple, with two pairs of legs up near the head. You are more likely to see galls on new shoots and fruit spurs that plants produce in response to these invaders. This new pest threatens tens of thousands of fruit and nut trees in California. If you suspect plum bud gall mites on your trees, please contact your County Extension Office right away.

Sticky barriers

This is also a good time to replace last year's sticky barriers. The protection from crawling insects that these simple barriers provide cannot be overstated. Sticky barriers block those crawlers (and slugs and snails) from getting up into your fruit and nut trees. This is especially helpful when it comes to ants, which will protect and farm aphids. Over time, the goo dries, making it ineffective. Also, the tape tends to pull away from the trunk, creating an easy trail for pests. Gently remove the old tape, inspect the trunk, and apply a fresh sticky barrier. Just be sure that you do not use painter's tape to create sticky barriers. The moisture from the goo will cause the tape to disintegrate and damage the tree's bark.

White-barked tree trunk is wrapped with a three inch band of duct tape which has been smeared with Tanglefoot, a sticky barrier..

Sticky barriers keep crawling insects out of trees (Kate Russell)

Thinning

As difficult as it may be for gardeners to thin out fruit and young plants, it really is necessary for the optimal growth of the remaining plants. April is the time to thin fruit on fruit trees, such as apricots, peaches, apples, pears, nectarines, and plums. Crowded fruit doesn’t get as big as it could and it encourages fungal diseases. Close-quartered fruit also provides great hiding places for pests. The best fruit grows from strong flower buds in full sunlight. The basic rule of thumb for thinning fruit is to leave one fruit per spur, with fruit 4-6” apart. Apricots, nectarines, and peaches are normally thinned when the fruit is 1/2-3/4” in diameter. Nut trees do not need to be thinned. Seedling plants should also be thinned according to seed packets or other reputable information. This allows each plant to reach its full potential and reduces problems with pests and diseases. Rather than pulling seedlings out by the roots, snip them off at soil level. This reduces disruption to the remaining (delicate) root systems and leaves valuable soil microorganisms in place.

Tree Trunk Painting

If you didn’t whitewash your tree trunks (and exposed branches) in March, there is still time to provide this valuable sun protection. Trunks and branches that get too much sun exposure can be damaged, causing the bark to split and peel. This provides pests and diseases with easy access to your trees’ inner workings. A simple mixture of half water and half white interior latex paint is all you need to protect your trees from sunburn this summer.

Bright pink blossoms on caged dwarf nectarine tree that has been whitewashed to protect against sunburn damage. Background of lawn and shrubs.

Whitewashing exposed branches reduces sunburn damage on this nectarine tree (Kate Russell)

Weeding

One of the most important April garden tasks is to get rid of those weeds. Since they can go to seed faster than everything else in the garden, removing them now will save you countless hours of work later on, in the summer.

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