Transplanting

Transplanting young seedlings is a rite of spring for many gardeners. Learn how to transplant your seedlings safely and easily to help them thrive.

Benefits of seed starts

Some plants, such as lettuce, have very tiny seeds that need light to germinate. Planting these directly in the ground often leads to losses due to wind dispersal or rotting under too much soil. Starting these plants in containers makes it easy to monitor them closely and keep the soil moist until the seeds sprout. As seedlings grow, they can become root bound, which means the roots start wrapping around the inner wall of the container. Many store-bought plants are root bound. Before this happens, you can up-pot or transplant those seedlings. Up-potting means moving a seedling from a small container to a slightly larger container. Transplanting means moving the plant to where it will live out its life.

When NOT to transplant

Plants that are fruiting, flowering, infested, or infected should generally not be transplanted. New transplants need to be able to focus on building a strong root system. Also, just as some people are more sensitive than others, some plants do not take kindly to being transplanted. The following plants should be sown directly into the ground whenever possible:

• artichoke
• beans
• beets
• butternut squash
• carrots
• corn
• cucumber​

• dill
• melons
• onions
• peas
• radishes
• summer squash
• zucchini

How to transplant seedlings

For many vegetable crops, you can transplant seedlings with the first leaves (cotyledons) below the soil line. Very often, these meristem tissues will transform into root tissues, adding nutrients and vitality to your plants. Once your seedlings are a couple of inches tall, you should prepare their new home, making sure that the soil is loose. The Bay Area’s heavy clay can form an impenetrable barrier to new roots if it is left smooth from a trowel or shovel. Be sure to rough up the edges of the planting hole. Then, follow these steps to successfully transplant your seedlings:

1. Place your hand over the container, with the plant between your fingers.
2. Gently turn the pot on its side or upside down, tapping the bottom with your other hand to knock the soil loose.
3. Cup your first hand to hold onto as much of the soil as possible.
4. Examine the roots and spread them out if they have started wrapping around themselves.
5. Slowly turn your hand, allowing the root system to roll into the prepared hole.
6. Ensure that all roots are covered with soil. If peat pots were used, make sure all of the peat is covered, as well.
7. Resist the urge to tamp down the soil. While big air pockets can dry out roots, pushing down compacts the soil and damages delicate root hairs. Instead, use water and gravity to get rid of those large air pockets. This is called mudding in.
8. Water thoroughly.

Seedlings

Place fingers on either side of the stem

Gently flip it over and remove the pot

Mud in new transplants - do not tamp down the soil

Caring for new transplants

New transplants should be treated gently for a few days. To help a young seedling thrive in its new environment (ecesis), be sure to:
​Harden off seedlings before transplanting.

• Water regularly, allowing the soil to mostly dry out between waterings.
• Do not use insecticidal soap or other treatments right away.
• You can feed fish emulsion or phosphorous to your transplanted seedlings a few days after their ordeal.
• Protect seedlings against cutworm damage by inserting a paperboard ring a couple of inches into the soil.
• Provide wind protection by cutting the bottom out of large plastic jugs and placing them over vulnerable plants.
• If your transplants are infected with anthracnose, they can be removed from the soil, dipped in fungicide and then replanted.
• Wilting and leaf rolling are common signs of transplant shock and often occur when plants are transplanted too early in their development.

Be sure to use plant markers when transplanting. This will help you recall where everything is!