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We’ve talked about black scurf and sweet potato scurf. Today, we’re learning about silver scurf. Silver scurf may sound like the latest Marvel comic hero, unfortunately, it’s a fungal disease of potatoes. For the most part, silver scurf is a cosmetic problem, but infection can lead to tubers rotting in storage, and they don’t look as pretty. Well, pretty for a potato.  Silver scurf scabs on potato (A.J. Gevens, UW Extension) CC BY-SA 4.0 Potatoes infected with Helminthosporium solani can be shrunken, shriveled, and lighter in color. This disease causes spud dehydration and scabby bits. You may also see black spots, which are tiny fungal factories. Other conditions that result in scabby potatoes include common scab, potato scab, and powdery scab. Scabby leaves often indicate Eriophyid mite feeding or bacterial spot, and scabby apples are a warning to look before you bite, because it may be a sign of codling moth larvae feeding. Apples are also subject to apple blotch and apple scab, while cucurbits can look less than their best due to belly rot and cucurbit scab. Until 1977, Thiabendazole (TBZ) fungicide was used against silver scurf. But as is often the case, the fungi developed a resistance. Other fungicides have been tried, but cultural controls provide a more sustainable method of reducing the chance of disease. Silver scurf occurs most often when temperatures are between 59°F and 90°F (15°C and 32°C), so pretty much all summer. Tubers left in the ground too long can also increase the likelihood of silver scurf. Crop rotation and early harvest are good ways to avoid this problem. Silver scurf is not to be confused with the lovely legume, silvery pea-scurf (Pediomelum argophyllum).  Silvery pea scurf (Matt Lavin) CC BY-SA 2.0 Fusarium yellows is a disease of the cabbage family.
Closely related to Fusarium wilt, Fusarium yellows sometimes goes by that name. More commonly, it is simply called yellows. This disease is caused by Fusarium oxysporum f. sp. Conglutinans fungi. It occurs most often in crops grown during warm weather. The disease is at its worst when temperatures are between 80°F and 90°F (27°C and 32°C). The pathogen generally enters damaged rootlets at transplanting time, so be gentle with those babies. Symptoms of Fusarium yellows are easy to overlook at first. Infected plants become a paler version of their healthier selves. They develop a yellowish tint, rather than vibrant green. As the disease progresses, that discoloration becomes more obvious on one side of the plant. The leaves and stems on that side start to curve. Lower leaves, midribs, and petioles eventually wilt and die. Symptoms then move to the upper portion of the plant. If you look at a cross-section of an infected leaf or stem, you can see that the sap has turned dark brown, much like black rot, which turns sap black. The other difference is that symptoms appear in the upper portions of the plant first when black rot is the culprit. Infected plants should be removed and thrown in the trash. These fungi can live in the soil for many years. The best preventive methods include crop rotation, removing plant debris at the end of the growing season, and growing your brassicas during cooler weather.  Rubus 'Thornless Youngberry', Australia (Nadiatalent) CC BY-SA 4.0 In 1905, Byrnes Young crossed “Mayes” dewberries with the “Phenomena” blackberry-raspberry hybrid, which resulted in Youngberries.
Youngberry plants Cousin to loganberries, nessberries, olallieberries, and tayberries, youngberry fruits (Rubus caesius ‘Youngberry') are slightly smaller and sweeter than blackberries. They can be dark red or deep purple to nearly black. They start ripening earlier in the season. Canes are moderately thorny, making them a nice choice as a security hedge. Thornless varieties are also available. Both varieties may have tiny prickles on new canes. As with other brambles, fruit is produced on second-year floricanes. These canes can be up to ten feet long and should be removed when fruit production ends. Plants are self-pollinating and can be grown in containers. How to grow Youngberries at home Youngberry canes should be installed in late winter to early spring. They thrive in slightly acidic, fertile clay or loamy soil and benefit from top dressings of aged manure or other compost. Like other cane fruits, they perform better when trellised or trained up a fence. Canes that touch the ground are likely to generate new plants. Be sure to provide good drainage and airflow. Like raspberries, your Youngberries may need shade in the afternoon to prevent sunburn damage. Allow for up to ten canes per plant. Plants should be spaced five to six feet apart. Youngberry plants are not drought tolerant, so regular irrigation is critical during the summer months. Youngberry pests and diseases Youngberry plants are known to be vigorous and highly disease resistant. But excess moisture and poor airflow can result in Fusarium wilt, gray mold, and Verticillium wilt. Fruit flies, spider mites, and thrips may also appear. Birds, grasshoppers, opossums, and other critters can be problematic. Netting may be necessary. You will probably never see these fruits in stores because they do not ship well, but I hope they make it to your garden. Having never given it much thought, I suppose I always imagined that cardamom grew on a shrub or tree. The reality is far more interesting. Did you know that cardamom is related to ginger and turmeric? All three are members of the ginger family (Zingiberaceae). But there are several different kinds of cardamom.  Cardamom powder and seeds (Silar) CC BY-SA 4.0 Cardamom varieties There are two main types and a handful of lesser-known culinary cardamoms. True or green cardamom (Elettaria cardamomum) is used in sweet and savory dishes and is light green. It is called white cardamom when it has been bleached. Larger and darker black cardamom seeds (Amomum subulatum) are also known as brown and Nepal cardamom and are more commonly used in savory dishes. Other culinary cardamoms include the following:
All of these plants are native to tropical and subtropical Asia, which provides a strong hint about how they grow and what they look like. Don’t let the Latin names scare you off. They come in very handy when shopping for specific plant varieties. .jpg) One year old cardamom plant (Aviatorjk) CC BY-SA 4.0 Cardamom plant(s) Cardamom plants look like many other tropical plants. They have a dozen or so erect, cane-like stems with large, glossy, lance-shaped leaves. In late spring or early summer, leafless stems emerge from the crown with small yellowish-white flowers that look like orchids, with colorful veins and margins. These flowers have no scent but eventually produce small pods that contain 15 to 20 seeds.  Cardamom flower (Reji Jacob) Public Domain Grown outdoors, a cardamom plant may grow up to 15 feet tall and 10 feet wide, though most are significantly smaller. Indoor cardamom plants only reach a height of two to four feet tall.
These plants are slow starters. They may only be one foot tall after two years. In the third year, they may be twice that tall. And that’s when seed production begins. How to grow cardamom Cardamom can be grown from seeds or thick, knobby rhizomes. These plants prefer loose, nutrient-rich, slightly acidic soil (5.1-6.1 pH), partial to full shade, and relatively high humidity (think lower canopy of a jungle), which makes them ideal house plants, especially in the bathroom. They perform well in containers (preferably 14 inches tall and wide or bigger). Cardamom does not take kindly to being transplanted, so plan accordingly. You can grow cardamom outside in USDA Plant Hardiness Zones 10-12. If you can plant it in a rain garden, all the better! Seeds should be planted 1/8 inch deep. They take a month or so to germinate. Some people recommend soaking seeds ahead of time. Personally, I worry about damping off and other fungal diseases. You do need to keep the soil moist and provide good drainage. Areas where cardamom grows naturally receive 150 inches of rain each. You want to keep your cardamom plant’s environment stable at or above 72°F/22°C. They don’t like changes, extremes, or direct sunlight. Feed your cardamom plant high-phosphorous fertilizer twice a month during the growing season. Top dressing with aged compost will help keep your cardamom happy and healthy. If growing cardamom indoors, know that flowering and seed production are less likely. If flowers do appear, you probably only have one day to hand-pollinate. It’s actually quite simple. Use a small, preferably natural bristle paintbrush and touch the male anther to collect microscopic pollen grains, then touch the female stigmas. The more you do this, the more likely pollination will occur. If successful, the flower will fall off, and the fruit (ovary) will swell. Harvest the pods when they begin to split. They should come away easily. If they don’t, give them another day or two. Cardamom pests and diseases Cardamom is a relatively trouble-free plant. However, aphids may infect plants with cardamom mosaic, and thrips feeding can be a problem. Cardamom plants are productive for eight or nine years, on average. Your experience may vary. Did you know that green cardamom is the third most expensive spice by weight, following saffron and vanilla? I didn’t either. Luckily, it only takes a little for that warm, exotic flavor. And if you grow your own, it's free. Have you ever slept on your arm wrong, and it went numb? Or had a nerve block? Dead arm disease is not about that experience. Gardeners used to think dead arm was a single disease with two sets of symptoms. Now we know better. Grape dead arm describes what happens when your vines are infected with Eutypa dieback and Phomopsis cane and leaf spot at the same time. Phomopsis cane and leaf spot Phomopsis cane and leaf spot provides the first symptoms of grape dead arm. Caused by the fungus Phomopsis viticola, dead arm starts out as tiny red spots on new shoots. These spots merge and turn black, causing the stem to die. Then brown and yellow spots appear on the leaves, and fruit rot begins. And Eutypa dieback
Eutypa dieback Eutypa dieback is caused by the fungus Eutypa lata. Fungi stay hidden under the bark for up to three years before symptoms become obvious. Areas of bark may look flattened. If you peel the bark back, there’s no mistaking the dark, V-shaped lesions hidden inside. These lesions often cause stunted shoots and cupped, yellow leaves that stay attached to the tree in a behavior known as flagging. You may also see a gummy ooze.
Dead arm management
Once these fungal diseases appear, careful pruning is needed to prevent them from spreading. Infected limbs should be cut at least 12 inches below any noticeable infection, and cutters should be dipped in a household cleaner between each cut to prevent the spread of disease. Infected plant material should be thrown in the trash and not composted. Fixed copper sprays or fungicides may also be needed. How to prevent dead arm Moisture is nearly always a contributing factor to fungal diseases. Make sure your sprinklers are not hitting vines or tree trunks. Pruning for good air flow will help prevent these and many other diseases. Plants susceptible to Eutypa dieback should be pruned in summer, rather than during dormancy. This allows wounds to dry and heal before fungi can enter. Contrary to popular opinion, do not use sealants on your vines or trees after pruning. Sealants seal moisture in, creating a protected environment for fungi to grow unseen until it’s too late. Let a callus form naturally instead. Unlike the familiar cucumber of salad and picnic fame, sweet cucumbers taste like a cross between honeydew and cucumber. But they aren’t melons or cucumbers. They are members of the nightshade family, along with eggplant, groundcherries, peppers, and tomatoes!  Sweet cucumber plant (I, Michael w) CC BY 2.5 Before we learn about the growing particulars of this new plant, let’s see why we would want it in our landscape. Also known as melon pear, pepino melon, or pepino dulce, fleshy sweet cucumbers (Solanum muricatum) give us the best of both worlds, melons and cucumbers. Like other nightshade plants, they are sturdy and can produce for several years. However, commercial growers tend to treat them as annuals. Because sweet cucumbers are sensitive to handling and long-term storage, we are unlikely to see them in stores any time soon. That’s why you might want to grow them at home. Let’s find out how.  Interior of sweet cucumber (Eglekuc) CC BY-SA 3.0 Native to South America, sweet cucumbers thrive in USDA Hardiness Zones 8–11. You can also grow them in a container and move them to a protected location in winter. They can tolerate some frost but produce the largest harvests when grown in a greenhouse. Short periods of temperatures as low as 28°F or as high as 100°F can be tolerated, but milder temperatures are preferred. Sweet cucumber plants can be grown from seed, but cuttings are faster and easier. Sweet pepper cuttings grow roots quickly and do not need auxins or other plant hormones to get started. Mature plants can grow three feet tall and wide. Flowers and immature fruits are white with purple stripes. As the fruit matures, the white tends to turn yellow or gold. Sweet cucumbers prefer dry environments but need regular irrigation to keep up with their fast growth rate. Feeding rates will depend on your latest lab-based soil test results and local conditions. Most sweet cucumbers produce fruit in 4 to 6 months. Naturally upright, these plants benefit from tomato cages or other supports to help keep fruit off the ground, though this is not always needed. They frequently enjoy the extra heat provided by a south-facing wall or fence. Pruning is not required. The soil should never be soggy. Sweet cucumbers are self-pollinating but will produce more fruit if other plants are nearby. Fruits are picked after they are fully ripe. Sweet cucumber plants are subject to many of the same pests and diseases as other nightshade family members. Common pests include aphids, Colorado potato beetles, cutworms, flea beetles, fruit flies, hornworms, leaf miners, spider mites, and whiteflies. They are also susceptible to anthracnose, bacterial spot, pepino mosaic, tobacco mosaic, and blights caused by Alternaria spp. and Phytophthora spp. .jpg) Sweet cucumber flower (Philipp Weigell) CC BY 3.0 Do you have a warm, sunny spot in your landscape? Sweet cucumbers might be a great addition to your summer menu.
If you love raspberries but don’t want the seeds, loganberries may be the answer. Loganberries (Rubus × loganobaccus) are an accidental hybrid of raspberries and blackberries.  Loganberries are bigger than raspberries (Publicdomainpictures.net) Now, how can a hybrid be accidental?
It ends up that, back in 1881, James Harvey Logan decided to create a better blackberry. He crossed a couple of local varieties and waited to see what would happen. Then, some nearby raspberries got into the act when Logan planted the offspring of his first experiment. This additional genetic information created not one but two new cultivars: the ‘Mammoth’ blackberry and the loganberry. These perennial members of the Heather family look like blackberry bushes, but the fruit is dark red, more like a moody raspberry, and longer. Other raspberry-blackberry hybrids have been developed, including boysenberry, dewberry, nessberry, olallieberry, Santiam blackberry, tayberry, and youngberry. What makes these plants so popular? Most people agree that berries are delicious. But berries don’t always ship or store well, making them excellent choices for the home garden. Like other brambles, loganberries are canes. Each plant will produce an average of 10 semi-upright stems which can be trained along a fence or trellis. In their first year, these primocanes focus on leaf and root development. Flowers and fruit occur in the second year on floricanes. After a cane has produced fruit, remove it at ground level. Loganberry plants protect themselves with soft spines that can itch, so gloves are a good idea. If you prefer a thornless version, you can always try the ‘American Thornless’ variety. Or if a natural barrier to unwanted intruders would be helpful, a loganberry wall might be a delicious option. Mature loganberries are red, but they are generally harvested while still purple. Each loganberry bush can produce up to 18 pounds of fruit annually and may live for 15 years. Loganberry plants are propagated from cane cuttings and layering. They perform best in USDA Hardiness Zones 6-10. Space your loganberry plants six feet apart. They prefer full sun, though afternoon partial shade is acceptable. Loganberry plants are rugged and tend to be more disease-resistant than many of their cousins. But they are susceptible to several fungal diseases, including anthracnose, Botrytis fruit rot, powdery mildew, raspberry leaf spot, rust, and spur blight, as well as crown gall and Phytophthora root rot. Avoid these diseases by providing good drainage and airflow. And be sure to remove mummies right away. Common loganberry pests include aphids, dryberry mites, raspberry cane maggots, raspberry beetles, crown borers, root weevils, sawflies, and slugs and snails. As tempting as it may be to sprinkle salt around your brambles to protect the fruit against slugs and snails, don’t do it. Table salt may be great on that baked potato, but it does terrible things to your soil and garden plants. Instead, monitor your plants regularly for signs of infestation and infection to be the first to enjoy those luscious big berries as soon as they are ready! If you bite into a pepper and find tiny grubs, it might be pepper weevils.  Pepper weevil on bud (Alton N. Sparks, Jr., UGA, Bugwood.org) CC BY 3.0 Pepper weevils (Anthonomus eugenii) are specialists. These beetles are not interested in other members of the nightshade family, so your eggplants and tomatoes are safe, for now. But your chili peppers, jalapeños, sweet peppers, and tomato peppers are not. Like your peppers, pepper weevils prefer hot weather. Native to Mexico, these pests have moved northward with the changing climate as far as Canada and the Netherlands. How they got across the ocean is anyone’s guess, but probably on infested fruit. Adult pepper weevils are only 1/6th of an inch long, black, brown, or gray, with bent antennae and a long, curved weevil snout. Pepper weevils eat flower and leaf buds, which can put a serious dent in your pepper harvest. Making matters worse, female pepper weevils cut holes in developing buds, lay an egg in each one, and then plug the hole with bug poop. When the egg hatches, the larva burrows its way to the center of the fruit, growing and pooping until it reaches a pupal stage. As adults, they continue feeding on the fruit on their way out and then start the cycle again. Females produce nearly 350 eggs in their very short lifetime.  Pepper weevil larva in fruit (Alton N. Sparks, Jr., UGA, Bugwood.org) CC BY 3.0 Chemical controls are ineffective since adult pepper weevils tend to stay hidden in the lower parts of the plant, especially as temperatures rise. Check flowers, fruit, and leaf whorls each morning as you wander through your garden. Unfortunately, pepper weevils have few natural enemies, so quarantine new plants and remove all infested fruit.
You can use pheromone traps to monitor for pepper weevils. Keep in mind, however, that pheromone traps attract pests. Pepper weevils overwinter in black nightshade (Solanum nigrum), so keep those away from your pepper plants. Zucchini, melons, and several other cucurbits offer the added bonus of producing edible flowers. But it's important to know which flowers are male and which will produce the fruit you planted for in the first place. If you stuff all your male zucchini flowers with cream cheese and breadcrumbs, there may not be enough pollen available to pollinate the female flowers. Unless you have self-pollinating plants, that would mean no zucchinis and no chocolate zucchini cake!  Male (left) and female (right) zucchini flower buds. In the photo above, you can see one long-stemmed flower bud on the left and one stubby flower bud on the right. The longer stemmed bud is male. Male zucchini flowers appear everywhere on the plant and usually before female flowers. They have a distinctive cup at the base, and a knobby, pollen-coated stamen inside the flower. That pollen can be collected for later use, just make sure it doesn't get moldy. The female bud stem is shorter and thicker, and it does not have the cup-shaped base. Instead, what looks like a stem is a (potential) baby zucchini. Female flowers tend to stay near the middle of the plant, though not always. After the flowers open, pollen from the male flower has to come into contact with the female flower's pistil. This usually occurs thanks to pollinators, such as honeybees. My indoor windowsill garden requires hand-pollination, which simply means touching flowers repeatedly with a natural bristle paint brush every day that the female flowers are open. Indoor gardening is a lot easier than many people think.
Over the next few weeks, I will be adding photos to show you how the fruit develops.
Be sure to check back for updates! People have been using kelp and other seaweeds as a fertilizer for thousands of years. Historically, it was collected, dried, and added to the soil by hand. Today’s kelp and seaweed market is a very different critter. You can find seaweed extract, kelp meal, and everything in between. Frequently touted as disease suppressants, fertilizers, and stress reducers for plants, kelp and other seaweeds are also said to contain helpful plant hormones and other biostimulants, but are those claims true? First, let’s learn a little about these underwater plants.  Kelp forest (goodfreephotos.com) Kelp and other seaweeds
There are thousands of different seaweeds, and they are all marine algae. Some seaweeds are microscopic, while others, such as kelp, can create towering underwater forests. If you have ever been to a Southern California beach, you know that kelp is slick and abundant. The leaves look like reddish brown lasagna noodles. And as it grows, kelp absorbs pollution. One common pollutant, nitrogen, happens to be the number one nutrient needed by your garden plants. That should make kelp and other seaweeds excellent sources of plant nutrition. But are they? Kelp claims Many claims have been made about the benefits of seaweed in the garden, including the following:
In one study, fields treated with kelp fertilizer were found to have slightly higher levels of sulfur. Sulfur has been shown to improve the flavor and quality of crops like tomatoes. The problem with all of these claims is that they are based on laboratory studies and some faulty logic. Just because something works under highly control lab conditions does not mean it will work in your yard, or that sellers are providing you with what they advertise. Quality controls matter Before jumping on the seaweed bandwagon, you should know that there can be significant variability on nutrient content. There is no standardization of contents or effectiveness at this time. Also, kelp holds onto other pollutants besides nitrogen. It can contain undesirable heavy metals along with that NPK. While it is unlikely to occur in your packaged seaweed fertilizer, you should know that rotting seaweed produces a lot of hydrogen sulfide, which is a highly toxic gas that causes diarrhea and vomiting. And we do not yet know how much or which type of seaweed actually benefits our plants. More research is needed. Bottom line, most seaweed extracts are very diluted forms of fertilizer. And they are expensive. Until quality controls are in place, you can get better results with a lab-based soil test and regular fertilizer treatments. Most of us grew up hearing frogs are smooth-skinned, and toads are dry and warty. It ends up that that distinction has no basis in science. They are all frogs. And we know them when we see them.  American Toad (Wikimedia) Public Domain Long legs, big bellies, protruding eyes, and long, sticky tongues all help make these garden helpers voracious predators. Frogs commonly eat flies, moths, slugs, snails, and worms. This makes frogs a great addition to your garden. All they need is moisture and a chemical-free environment. Sadly, those conditions are in short supply these days. Frogs have been around for about 250 million years. They lay eggs in water. Those eggs hatch into tadpoles. Tadpoles swim around, eating algae and other plant matter until they lose their tails, then they move on land.  Frog life cycle (LadyofHats) Public Domain Frogs make up nearly 90% of the world’s amphibians, but they are in trouble. According to Wikipedia, one-third of all frog species are threatened with extinction. More than 120 species have gone extinct since the 1980s, and genetic mutations are increasing. Considering frogs are significant players in the world’s food web, we can all do them a favor by making room for them in our gardens. Adding a frog pond might be more than some gardeners can manage. But you can probably create a moist, private area with protective branches and plants to help native frogs hide from garter snakes, pets, and human activities. Consider a bird bath or other shallow water container at ground level. If you come across a frog in your garden, it is best to leave it alone. Most amphibians carry Salmonella bacteria and should not be handled.  Common toad exhibiting a defensive posture (Łukasz Olszewski ImreKiss) CC BY 3.0 As a gardener, I love getting my hands dirty. I love the feel and smell of rich, damp soil. I love its earthiness. It makes me feel connected. As a result, I never gave hydroponics a chance. I was wrong.  Hydroponic lettuce (Marsraw) Pixabay Hydroponics refers to growing plants in water that has been infused with nutrients. Plants grown hydroponically may have their root systems supported with slotted cups or other mechanical means, or they held in place with gravel, perlite, or other inert material. So, how did I get started with hydroponics? In my high-rise apartment, we have a Free Bench. A Free Bench is any space where neighbors can put things they no longer want, and others can freely take whatever they like. It’s a great way to reduce waste and clutter at the same time. If your apartment or neighborhood doesn’t have a Free Bench, I urge you to create one. I recently saw a brand-new AeroGarden hydroponic herb garden, complete with seeds and plant food, on our Free Bench. I had to grab it and give it a try. The concept behind hydroponics is simple. A bowl-shaped base contains water and a water pump. The water pump circulates the water periodically, preventing swamp-like conditions. This circulation aerates the water.  My hydroponic garden on January 20th The bowl has a flat lid with holes. Cone-shaped containers of inert material contain seeds. These cones fit nicely into the holes. An arm at the back of the bowl supports a grow light. This arm can be raised or lowered, depending on the height of the plants. What’s so great about hydroponics? The best thing about hydroponics is that there is practically zero water waste. The container is covered, reducing evaporation, and the roots pull up as much water as they need. No more and no less. According to Wikipedia, it takes 57 gallons of water to grow 2.2 pounds of tomatoes in soil. Growing the same tomatoes hydroponically takes 18 gallons, and growing them aeroponically only uses 5.3 gallons. We will discuss that method another day. So, you can’t overwater. Overwatering is probably the most common cause of death for indoor plants. The worst thing you can do for your hydroponics irrigation-wise is to forget to top off the water as it gets used by the plants. Luckily, my unit has a warning light that tells me it’s time to add water. It also has a light that tells me when to feed my water-bound plants. The kit came with its own plant food. When that is used up, I will probably start using fish emulsion. My hydroponic plants get all the light they need from LEDs built into the unit.  My hydroponic plants are putting out serious roots by February 1st! To create your own hydroponic planter with a yogurt container, use these steps:
*Do not fill the container to the top. The roots need some air exposure, or they will drown and die. It won’t be as convenient as the automated version since you must monitor it more closely. But you can grow a surprising amount of food this way. Commercial hydroponic facilities currently grow cucumbers, lettuce, peppers, spinach, and strawberries, along with all those tomatoes. As water supplies dwindle and weather patterns continue to change, hydroponic gardening may very well be the agriculture of the future.  One week later, I can harvest some dill, and the basil and mint are nearly ready for their first pinching! It’s a great way to have fresh herbs, even if you live in an apartment. And the space above the lights makes the perfect spot for drying those herbs!  UPDATE (March 7, 2025): The rate at which my hydroponic herbs are growing continues to impress me. And the basil leaves are the biggest I've ever seen (and delicious)!
The downside of hydroponics
As is usually the case with things that seem ideal on the surface, there is a downside to hydroponics. That downside is rot. Unless you regularly remove everything and clean every aspect of your hydroponic garden, things will start to rot. I thought I could get away with avoiding that task, but I was wrong. Every time I tried starting new seeds, they developed fungal fuzz and died. Even my healthy established basil plants started showing signs of disease: curled leaves, odd new growths, and reduced production. I prefer no-fuss, low-maintenance gardening, so I emptied and cleaned out my AeroGarden and put it back on the Free Bench in my building for someone else. Hydroponics may be exactly what you’re looking for. But it’s not for me. Juniper pollen levels are rising in the Seattle area right now. It makes me wonder when the best time would be to collect some juniper berries. I needed more information. In my mind, I thought I knew what juniper meant, but I wasn’t entirely sure.  Juniper cones and leaves (MPF) CC BY 2.5 My lack of clarity was partly due to how juniper leaves change from adolescence to adulthood. Also, it ends up that the word juniper does not refer to a single tree. Instead, juniper refers to an entire group of conifers, or evergreens, in the Juniperus genus. The juniper family There are more than 50 different junipers. They are found everywhere, from the African plains to the Himalayas. They can be low, spreading shrubs, tall, skinny columns, or the classic Christmas tree shape. Some junipers grow 130 feet tall, but most are significantly smaller. This group is part of the cypress family, cousins to sequoia and cedar trees.
Some junipers are monoecious (distinctly male or female), and others are dioecious (both male and female). Apparently, some types of juniper pollen can be a serious problem. Male monoecious juniper pollen is considered the worst. Then again, female monoecious juniper pollen ranks the lowest. Juniper cones Junipers do not produce fruit or flowers, but they do make seeds. Those seeds are protected inside cones. That’s because they are gymnosperms. Unlike familiar pinecones, juniper cones are the “berries” in question.  Male (brown) juniper cones and female (greenish yellow) female seed cones Pixnio Public Domain Botanically, those berries are female seed cones called galbuli. Instead of being berries, these structures have tiny, fleshy scales that fuse together. Galbuli take 6 to 18 months to mature after being pollinated. And I will still call them berries, even though I know they’re not. Male juniper cones look a little more familiar but are softer than pine cones. The seeds inside the galbuli take 1 to 3 years to mature. Most junipers bloom in autumn and pollinate from early winter through late spring.
 Juvenile juniper leaves (left), adult leaves, and immature male cones (right) GFDL CC BY-SA 3.0 So, why would someone want juniper berries?
I know they are used to making gin, which is beyond me. They are also used when making game and other meat dishes, sauerbraten, sauerkraut, and an intriguing juniper berry spiced chocolate hazelnut cookie recipe that I must try. And how do I know when they are ready to harvest? Juniper berries are ready to be picked when they reach their full color. Most often, they are blue, but can also be orange or reddish-brown. The trick is finding junipers that have not been sprayed with chemicals or are too close to road traffic, where they will absorb unwanted fumes. Growing your own is the best way to protect yourself. How to grow juniper Junipers can be grown from seed, but it’s a slow process that requires stratification and patience. It’s easier to start with a certified pest- and disease-free seedling. As always, put your juniper into quarantine while you figure out the best place to put it. Most junipers need at least 6 hours of direct sunlight each day. Each species is unique, so read the label. Dig a hole that is wide enough to allow the roots to spread out. Be sure that the trunk’s flare is above the soil level. Improper planting depth is one of the most common reasons trees fail to thrive. Cover the roots with soil and resist the temptation to tamp it down. This damages valuable root hairs. Instead, mud in your young juniper with water. This eliminates drying air pockets and provides valuable moisture. Junipers are drought-tolerant once established. Avoid overwatering or fungal disease will become problematic. Juniper pests and diseases Junipers are susceptible to root rots and cedar-apple rust, so keep them away from your apple trees. Several moth and butterfly caterpillars feed on juniper, including juniper carpet, juniper pug, pine beauty, and tortrix moths. Junipers come in so many shapes and sizes that there’s bound to be one that would be lovely in your landscape. Mistletoe may bring lovers together for a holiday kiss, but you don’t want these parasitic plants in your landscape.  Vintage mistletoe illustration (rawpixel) Public Domain Types of mistletoe There are several types of mistletoe. Some have red berries, and some have white, but they are all members of the Santalales order. You can determine your variety by counting the berries in each cluster. European mistletoe berries occur in clusters of two to six, while you will find 10 or more berries in clusters of North American mistletoe. How mistletoe grows Mistletoe seeds land on branches and twigs, often via bird droppings. These seeds (drupes) send early roots into the bark to tap a significant food source. Since penetrating the bark can take up to a year, these plants use photosynthesis at first. As such, they are hemiparasites. Once they attach themselves to a host plant, most photosynthesis stops. Eventually, the mistletoe plant takes on a witches’ broom growth.
Like dodder, mistletoe plants use a specialized structure (haustorium) to attach themselves to various trees and shrubs, including apple and cocoa trees. They then suck water and nutrients from host plants. Heavy infestations can kill the host.  Mistletoe can devastate a tree (Antranias) Pixabay Mistletoe management
If mistletoe appears in your landscape, early removal of affected limbs can save the host plant. Traditionally used to treat arthritis, epilepsy, infertility, and countless other maladies, we now know that mistletoe berries are toxic and should never be eaten. Quince is a close cousin to apples and pears and the fruit looks like a cross between the two. Also known as common quince (as opposed to flowering quince), it has a texture like Asian pears. It can be eaten raw and is commonly used to make jams and jellies. You will rarely see them in stores because they do not ship or store well. In ancient Rome, quince (Cydonia oblonga) was stored in jugs of honey and diluted wine.  Ripe yellow quince (Marco Verch) CC BY 2.0 Quince trees Quince trees have a shrub-like growth that can get messy. They can grow up to 20 feet tall and 15 feet wide, but dwarf varieties are significantly smaller. You can prune them into a single trunk tree form or let them grow naturally. These are very low-maintenance trees that produce fruit for many years. The large fruits are tart and firm, like an Asian pear, and can weigh more than two pounds. They ripen in late autumn and are best left on the tree until fully ripe.  Ripening quince in a tree (Shuhrataxmedov) CC BY-SA 3.0 Quince trees are deciduous, so they don’t have much to offer in winter, but they do need chilling hours to produce fruit in spring. If you grow quince in a container, you can easily move it to a secluded outdoor corner of the yard if the container has wheels. These trees produce downy gray twigs and lovely pink or white blossoms in spring.  Quince blossom (Spring's Flowers) Public Domain How to grow quince
These plants prefer hot, sunny summers and slightly acidic soil. They can be grown in USDA Hardiness Zones 5-9. They are not frost tolerant but can withstand temperatures as low as -15°F. Your quince will benefit from a little wind protection, too. You can grow quince in your yard or in a container. But they generally do not grow true to seed, so you are better off investing in certified pest- and disease-free bare root stock. You may also use cuttings or layering, if you know someone who has a healthy quince tree. While quince is self-pollinating, they are more productive when more than one tree is present to provide cross-pollination. Quince varieties There are several varieties of quince to choose from. The following are a few of the more favorites:
Quince pests and diseases Aphids, codling moths, mealybugs, leafrollers, and scale insects are common quince pests. Fungal diseases, particularly cedar-quince rust and quince leaf blight can also cause problems. You can reduce the likelihood of rust by keeping your quince away from juniper and other conifers. People have been growing quince for nearly 7,000 years. If Neolithic farmers could do it, so can you. I was inspired to learn and write about safflower after watching Hayao Miyazaki’s Only Yesterday. In this beautiful, well-told story, a young girl decides to spend her summer helping distant relatives harvest safflowers. The lovely blooms (beni) were dried, mashed, and dried again to create rouge and lipstick.  Safflower buds and blooms (Howard F. Schwartz, Colorado State University, Bugwood.org) CC BY 3.0 US People have been growing safflower (Carthamus tinctorius) for over 4,500 years. It is one of our oldest crops, first cultivated in Mesopotamia, primarily for its oily seeds. Safflower description Safflower is a thistle-like plant that grows one to five feet tall from a basal leaf rosette. A central stem emerges, and several lateral branches support abundant, colorful blooms. Those blooms may be orange, red, yellow, and occasionally cream or white. The dried petals are commonly used as an inexpensive substitute for saffron. Each plant may produce anywhere from 3 to 50 blooms, depending on the variety and how it is managed. Each flower is approximately one inch in diameter and produces 15–50 seeds. Some varieties grow as many as 100 seeds. Those seeds are achenes. [Achenes are what you see at the end of each “helicopter” on a dandelion seed head.] Leaves are narrow and serrated and run down the stem. Upper leaves have a spine at the tip, so you may want to wear gloves when working with safflower. How safflower grows Safflower is native to arid regions that receive seasonal rain. These herbaceous annuals thrive in temperatures ranging from 82–95°F. They are very drought-tolerant plants, making them an excellent choice for adding color to your landscape without increasing the need for irrigation. They use a deep taproot that may be six feet long or longer to find water for themselves for most of the year. Those tap roots improve soil health and can help reduce soil compaction. There are summer and winter varieties of safflower. Summer varieties require 120 growing days, while winter varieties need 200 days. How to grow safflower Safflower seeds are planted one inch deep. In the wild, safflower seeds germinate during late winter. Seedlings can tolerate temperatures as low as 19°F but planted when temperatures reach 40°F. Keep weeds away from your young safflower plants, as they are not competitive. Safflower grows best in well-drained soil with a pH of 5–8 and needs a fair amount of nitrogen and phosphorus to produce flowers. Check your soil test results before adding anything because too much fertilizer can be worse than not enough.
Money may not grow on trees, but cocoa beans do!  Delicious chocolate has been a treat for over 5,000 years. But what do we know about this cousin of okra and cotton? Let’s find out. First, when I hear the word bean, I think of legumes. In the case of cocoa beans, I would be incorrect. Like coffee beans and kola nuts, cocoa beans are the seeds of a fruit. The cocoa we enjoy as chocolate is the dried and fermented seed of the cacao or cocoa tree (Theobroma cacao). That Latin name comes from the Greek word for “food of the gods”. Cocoa tree description Evergreen cocoa trees grow 20 to 40 feet tall. The leaves are broad, 3” long, and alternate along the stems. Thousands of tiny flowers grow in clusters directly from the trunk and large branches in a behavior known as cauliflory, but mature trees may only produce 20 fruits each year. .jpg) Cocoa flowers (Vinayaraj) CC BY-SA 4.0 The fruit or pod can grow nearly a foot long and weigh up to one pound. Inside the fruit, 20 to 60 seeds are held in a white pulp. In some countries, cocoa pulp is used to make jellies and juice. But it is the seeds that give us chocolate. Cocoa seeds contain 40–50% fat. We call that fat cocoa butter. And it takes more than 500 seeds to make one pound of cocoa paste.  A cacao tree with fruit pods in various stages of ripening. (Medicaster) Public Domain  Cocoa seeds inside fruit (Keith Weller, USDA) Public Domain There are three types of cocoa trees, each with distinct characteristics:
 The three traditional varieties- Forastero, Trinitario, and Criollo (Tamorian) CC BY 3.0 How cocoa trees grow
Cocoa trees are grown from budding, cuttings, grafting, or seeds. You can also buy seedlings. Native to the understory of the American tropics, cocoa trees grow best in warm, wet, somewhat shaded locations. [USDA Hardiness Zones 10-12] They cannot tolerate temperatures below 55°F for long. Cocoa trees do not produce pods until they are four or five years old. They have extensive root systems that thrive in red clay (laterite) soils with a pH of 6.5 to 7.0 and good drainage. Unlike many other fruiting trees, biting midges (Forcipomyia) pollinate cocoa flowers instead of bees and butterflies. Pests and diseases of cocoa trees Most cocoa tree pests are region-specific. In the Americas, the cocoa fruit borer (Carmenta theobromae) causes significant problems, as do rats, squirrels, and woodpeckers. Fungal diseases of cocoa trees include Ceratocystis wilt, frosty pod rot, vascular streak dieback, Verticillium wilt, and witches’ broom. The cacao swollen shoot virus can infect cocoa trees, and mistletoe can drain your trees. Habitat loss is the biggest threat to modern cocoa trees. Many current growing areas are expected to be unsuitable by 2050. If you can, you might want to plant one today! Many of us use cinnamon in baking and other dishes, but how much do we know about this fascinating spice? And did you know that much of the cinnamon found in stores isn’t really cinnamon? Read on!  Dried bark strips, bark powder and flowers of Ceylon cinnamon (Simon A. Eugster) CC BY-SA 3.0 Cinnamon has been prized for thousands of years. Initially considered fit only for gods, monarchs, and mummies, those who knew where it came from kept their sources secret to maintain their monopoly. Instead, they encouraged myths about giant cinnamon birds who collected the dried sticks from distant shores where the trees were guarded by winged serpents. Two thousand years ago, 11 ounces of cinnamon cost the equivalent of 50 months’ labor. In the Middle Ages, it was believed that cinnamon was fished up in nets from the Nile River. In any case, the delicious aroma we associate with cinnamon comes to us from the inner bark of several different trees in the Cinnamomum genus. These trees are cousins to bay and other laurels. Cinnamon trees are evergreens with oval leaves and thick bark.  Cinnamon leaves (L. Shyamal) CC BY-SA 3.0
There are four major types of cassia:
Cassia is often mixed with true cinnamon to form a counterfeit product marked falsely as cinnamon. I guess we get what we pay for. How cinnamon is managed Cinnamon trees are allowed to grow for two years before harvesting begins. They are grown on plantations in South America, Asia, China, and India. Once the trees are mature enough, they are coppiced. The following year, parts of the outer bark are scraped off to expose the inner bark. This inner bark is peeled off and sun-dried or ground into powder. Stick cinnamon can last up to five years when stored in an airtight container, but ground cinnamon should be used within six months. Or, you can try growing your own.  Cinnamon flowers (Augustus Binu) CC BY-SA 3.0 How to grow cinnamon
You can grow a cinnamon tree indoors pretty much anywhere. You’ll need to live in USDA Hardiness Zones 10-12 for one to grow well outside. These trees prefer slightly acidic soil (pH 6.2-7.2). Depending on the variety selected, your tree may grow 3 to 60 feet tall and 2 to 20 feet wide, so plan accordingly. Your cinnamon tree will need plenty of direct sunlight but can handle some afternoon shade. These trees should be watered deeply and fertilized often when establishing a root system and every spring. You can grow a cinnamon tree from a stem cutting or purchase a seedling. Cinnamon pests and diseases Cinnamon trees are vulnerable to several fungal diseases including types of Diplodia, the fungal pathogen responsible for anthracnose (Glomerella cingulate), and a form of dieback known as cinnamon fungus (Phytophthora cinnamomi). Leaf miners and mealybugs are common cinnamon tree pests. In the tropics, cinnamon butterfly caterpillars and cinnamon gall mites are the primary pests. When cinnamon is cured improperly, many pests are attracted to the fragrant, vulnerable wood. Fumigation with sulfur dioxide is the most common treatment. [I have no idea how much sulfur dioxide remains on our cinnamon once it reaches the store.] Are you seeing speckled leaves? Are leaf veins turning yellow? Are your plants stunted or looking pale? It may be aster yellows, and that disease comes into the garden on aster leafhoppers.  Aster leafhopper (Whitney Cranshaw, USDA Forest Service) CC BY 3.0 Also known as six-spotted leafhoppers, aster leafhoppers (Macrosteles quadrilineatus) prefer cereals and other grasses, such as barley, corn, oats, and rye. They also feed on carrots, celery, cucumber, dill, lettuce, onions, potato, pumpkin and other squash, and radish. Once they have fed on a plant infected with aster yellows, they carry that disease to all the plants they feed on.
Aster leafhopper description Aster leafhoppers are good at hiding. Before you see them, you may notice tiny insects launching themselves away at your approach. These bugs are only one-eighth of an inch long, narrow, and a dull light green. If you can get ahold of one and take a closer look, you will see that they have six white spots on their heads, but you’ll probably need a hand lens to see that much detail. Nymphs look like pale, wingless adults. Like their parents, they prefer hiding on the underside of leaves. Aster leafhopper management Remove any plants infected with aster yellows to reduce the spread of disease. Aster leafhopper management is tricky. You can use row covers to protect your plants beforehand. You can also use insecticidal soap and horticultural oils to eradicate these pests. Just be careful with those oils in summer because they can increase the likelihood of sunburn damage. As more gardeners face rising temperatures and increasing drought, it’s good to know that some edible plants love that weather. Thanks to a comment from Nina in our discussion about xeriscapes, we are going to learn about a delicious berry called agarita.  Ripe agarita berries (Clarence A. Rechenthin @ USDA-NRCS PLANTS Database) Public Domain Said to taste like a cross between strawberry and raspberry, this fruit of the desert has a lot to offer home gardeners. It is also popular with songbirds, and the spiny branches provide a haven to quail and many small mammals, improving biodiversity in your landscape. Agarita description Agarita (Mahonia trifoliolata) is a member of the barberry family. Like other evergreen barberries, this shrub tends to grow 3-6 feet tall and wide, though it can grow taller under the right conditions. The gray-blue-green leaves look (and feel) similar to holly with spines on the tips. The wood and fragrant flowers are bright yellow. Honeybees love using those flowers to make high-quality honey. The fruit is a pea-sized red berry often used to make jellies, syrups, and wine. .jpg) Agarita flowers (Dave Whitinger, All Things Plants) CC BY-SA 3.0 How to grow agarita Native to coastal south Texas, Arizona, and northern Mexico, agarita grows best in open, rocky areas with well-drained clay, loam, limestone, or caliche. According to Webster, caliche is “a mineral deposit of gravel sand, and nitrates, found especially in dry areas of South America.” We’ll learn more about that another day. Agarita is grown from seed. Those seeds require 2-3 months of cold stratification to germinate so that you can plant them in summer for a spring appearance. You can also start new agarita plants with sprouts that emerge from existing plants. Your agarita can be grown in full sun or light shade. Caring for agarita Agarita needs very little water. In fact, it doesn’t need much of anything. Once established, agarita makes an excellent hedge or thicket. Like Oregon grape, these spiny shrubs make excellent defensive plants.  Agarita leaves look worse than they feel (Stan Shebs) CC BY-SA 3.0 Agarita pests and diseases
Agarita has very few problems. The roots contain alkaloids that inhibit fungi, and It even thwarts deer! Leaf spots and rusts can occur, and agarita is an intermediate host for stem rust, which can cause significant problems for barley, oats, rye, and wheat, so plan accordingly. Try growing agarita in your landscape for some refreshing summer fruit. Have you ever seen two fruits growing together from the same stem?  Twin cherries (Jiaqian AirplaneFan) CC BY 3.0 Twinning commonly occurs among stone fruits but is also seen in apples, pears, kiwifruit, coconuts, and zucchini. You may even see fruit quadrupling. But it is better to prevent fruit doubling.  Golden zucchini twinning (Jonathunder) CC BY-SA 3.0 What does twinning look like? Conjoined fruits may share a little or a lot of one side. Those shared areas may be small, leaving the two fruits primarily separate. Or, they can share the entire length of the fruit. Either way, when these fruits are separated, they rot more quickly. .JPG) Twin lychees (B.navez) CC BY-SA 4.0  Coconut twinning (Didier Descouens) CC BY-SA 4.0. What causes twinning? Twinning is the result of environmental stresses. The fertilization of a single ovary usually results in one fruit. Frost damage can injure fruit buds before we even see them. Later in the season, heat and water stress can interfere with carpel formation. Carpels are the female reproductive parts of a flower (ovary, stigma, and style). This damage can result in flowers with multiple carpels that grow into conjoined fruits. Irregular irrigation and insufficient chill hours can cause twinning, too. .jpg) Conjoined mangos (Eliran t) CC BY-SA 4.0 How can twinning be prevented?
Select fruit tree varieties suited to your USDA Hardiness Zone and microclimate. Pay special attention to the number of chill hours required to produce fruit. As always, install your trees at the proper depth since healthy trees can protect themselves in many cases. Regular spring and summer irrigation and winter protection will also help prevent twinning. Twinned fruit should be removed as part of your normal fruit thinning as these fruits are more prone to pest and disease problems. If you end up with mature twinned fruit, take a photo and eat it. New Pest Alert! Are you seeing masses of red or red and black bugs in your garden? .jpg) Mediterranean Red Bug (Katja Schulz) CC BY 2.0 First seen in the U.S. in 2009, Mediterranean red bugs, or simply red bugs, have become a problem. Easily mistaken for boxelder and milkweed bugs, red bugs are something else altogether. Mediterranean red bug description Mature Mediterranean red bugs (Scantius aegyptius) are only 1/3 of an inch long. The head, legs, and antennae are black. The body is red with a distinct hourglass-like shape and dots on either side of the back. Nymphs are red. The black markings become more pronounced after each molt. Several lookalike bugs impact our gardens differently:
Damage caused by red bugs
Scientists are still learning about which plants are vulnerable to red bugs. Because these bugs eat knotweed and malva, you may be tempted to let them slide. That can backfire in the long run if we learn that many other annual plants and their seeds are vulnerable in a year or two. These bugs are extremely prolific, and the balance of controls between pests and beneficial insects (among other things) can be very delicate and easily disrupted. I think we can agree that there has been enough of that already. If you see a red bug, try to catch it and contact your local County Extension Office.  Culantro (Mokkie) CC BY-SA 3.0 Culantro (Eryngium foetidum) is a distant relative to cilantro, but don’t let the name similarities confuse you. This herb is more pungent and bitter. But it does wonders for stimulating the appetite and adding depth of flavor to many South and Central American and East Asian dishes. Culantro is a low-growing tropical plant with saw-toothed leaves that grow in a rosette form.
When transplanting, space plants 12” apart. Unlike most herbs, culantro prefers soil that stays moist. Mulching around (but not touching) these plants can help stabilize soil moisture and reduce competition from weeds.
Culantro is relatively pest- and disease-free. Its umbrella-shaped flowers attract several beneficial insects, such as hoverflies and lacewings. The best reason for growing culantro is its delicious flavor. Who ever heard of a tomato tree? Well, it ends up that there is a small tree in the nightshade family that produces tart fruits with the texture of an extra firm tomato. It is called tamarillo.  Tomato tree (Ljuba brank) CC BY-SA 3.0 Tamarillo (Solanum betaceum) goes by many other names, including blood fruit, Dutch eggplant, and poor man’s tomato. Unlike the flavor of sun-sweetened tomatoes, these fruits taste more like what you might imagine an unripe melon crossed with a persimmon would be like. Before you give up on tamarillo, you need to know that these fruits are very flavorful. Add just a little sugar and transform the pulp into a refreshing beverage, refreshing toast topper, or delicious chutney, curry, or dessert. Tamarillo description Fast-growing tamarillo trees can reach heights of 12 to 15 feet. These perennial trees can live for 12 years. Seed-grown tamarillos feature a central trunk, while those grown from cuttings have a bushier shape. Both produce clustered fruit on lateral branches. The flowers are fragrant and self-pollinating, though production increases significantly if another tamarillo is nearby to cross-pollinate the flowers.  Tomato tree fruits (Ivar Leidus) CC BY-SA 4.0 Fruits may be red (tart) or yellow (sweeter) and contain large seeds.
How to grow tamarillo You can grow tamarillo from seeds or cuttings. Native to Central America, they prefer a warm climate and need protection from frost and cold winter temperatures. These are shallow-rooted trees that require regular irrigation. Mulch helps maintain stable soil moisture levels. Since they can hybridize with other members of the tomato family, you may want to plant them at a distance from other nightshade crops. Tamarillo pests and diseases Tamarillos are susceptible to tomato mosaic and powdery mildew. Tomato potato psyllids can be devastating, and nematodes can seriously damage young trees. Aphids and whiteflies are also common pests of tamarillo. While not what you expect from a tomato, a tomato tree might be just what your yard needs! We are not talking about the okra found in your gumbo. Chinese okra is a member of the squash and melon family. Native to South Asia, this fruit is used as a vegetable while young and as a scrubbing sponge when mature. These fruits can grow 18” long and look impressive when interspersed with red noodle bean plants!
Chinese okra description Chinese okra (Luffa acutangula) looks like a cucumber crossed with a zucchini with longitudinal ridges. Flowers are a sunny yellow and beautifully fragrant, especially in the evening. Vines are sturdy and may climb up to 12 feet, making these plants an excellent choice for a pergola, fence, or trellis.
The broad leaves look like other cucurbits. Extrafloral nectaries are commonly found and provide a haven for beneficial insects. The slightly bitter fruit and flowers are edible, and the skin is tough.  Extrafloral nectaries and ants (Brnfvr) CC BY-SA 4.0 How to grow Chinese okra
These plants can be grown in temperatures ranging from 68°F to 106°F. They need lots of sunlight but may benefit from protection from harsh afternoon sunlight that may cause sunburn. The seeds are large and easy to work with. Many people soak seeds overnight before planting. Plant seeds one-half inch deep, next to something the seedlings can climb, in soil with good drainage. Water deeply each week, allowing the soil to dry out between waterings. Chinese okra pests and diseases If it gets too cold, the leaves will darken, and water-soaked necrosis and wilting may occur. Leaf beetles and leaf miners are common pests of Chinese okra. Yellow spot may also occur. Harvest fruits while young and enjoy the way they soak up sauces. And if your Chinese okra gets too old, you can always let it dry and enjoy a luffa in your bath! |
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