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Salvia is one tough, beautiful plant. The bees love it, and you might, too! This member of the mint family is one of those no-brainer plants. They tend to grow well without any help from us. Composing the largest genus of mints, this group of plants includes the culinary favorite, sage (Salvia officinalis). Most ornamental salvias are referred to by their Latin name ‘salvere’, which means to feel ‘well and healthy’.  Honeybee on salvia (Kate Russell) Salvia description Salvias tend to be woody plants, which is one reason why they are so good at handling drought. Depending on the variety, they can be evergreen or annual, perennial, or biennial, Like other mints, the stems tend to grow at angles to each other and are square. The flower spikes are a big attraction. They consist of a modified leaf, called a bract, and stalked, clustered flowers, called racemes or panicles. Flowers can be red, pink, yellow, or white, but the deep bluish-purple is my favorite. Hummingbirds, butterflies, and other beneficial pollinators love them, as well. Weird salvia science Unlike most mints, which have four stamens, salvia has a unique pollination mechanism that uses only two stamens and connective tissue (thecae) that create a lever action. In male flowers, this lever-action dumps pollen on visiting pollinators. This mechanism also pushes the stigma close to the same general area on pollinators. After a pollinator leaves, everything returns to its normal position. This increases the likelihood of pollination and fertilization.  Ornamental salvia (Kate Russell) How to grow salvia
Depending on the variety, salvias can be grown from seeds, seedlings, or cuttings, once the last frost date has passed. Most salvias prefer full sun and good air circulation. An exception is the Japanese yellow sage (Salvia koyamae), which prefers shade and moist soil. If your soil is heavy clay, like mine, you will want to incorporate some aged compost to lighten it up before planting. Salvias will produce more blooms with regular feeding. You can also mulch around plants with aged compost for reduced moisture loss and slow-release feeding. If you prune your salvias before they bloom, flowering can be significantly delayed. Better to shear your salvias at a time of year when they are not flowering. And be sure to deadhead spent blooms the rest of the year to stimulate more flower production. While being drought tolerant, your salvias will need to be watered. Just wait until you notice some moderate wilting, to avoid common fungal diseases. Salvia pests and diseases Rust, powdery mildew, and leaf spot may occur, but they can often be prevented with proper water management [Read: avoid overhead watering]. Aphids and thrips will be the most common pests. [Aren’t they always?] Many salvias have hairs on leaves and stems that discourage many pests and grazers (and my chickens). Whether you choose edible culinary sage, fragrant pineapple sage (Salvia elegans), the sacred white sage (Salvia apiana), or sturdy purple sage (Salvia dorrii), try adding some salvia to your landscape or garden today!
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Pergolas are more than shade structures. Shade structures protect us from the sun’s summer glare, but they are often poorly made and generally don’t last more than a season or two. Pergolas, on the other hand, are sturdy structures that can provide shade for decades. Let’s find out why pergolas are such a good idea.  Patio pergola (Kate Russell) Pergolas reduce the heat sink effect Many homes have concrete patios. Concrete acts as a heat sink that absorbs and then radiates a phenomenal amount of heat in the summer. This is also known as the urban heat island (UHI) effect. As this heat is radiated, it can cause several problems:
Shade can reduce the ambient temperature by as much as 15°. If it’s 100°F outside, that can make a huge difference in your comfort, your plants’ health, and your cooling bill. Pergolas as protection The word ‘pergola’ comes from the Latin word ‘projecting eave’. People have been creating shade for themselves since, well, since there have been people! At first, pergolas provide only marginal protection from the elements. Over time, as climbing plants make their way up and across the top of your pergola, the shade protection can become significant. After many years of growth, your pergola may even offer something of a rain barrier! A structure by any other name… Pergolas are spaces defined by upright posts or beams and an open lattice above that is normally used as support for climbing plants. Many people call pergolas by other names: arbors, gazebos, and bowers, but they are technically incorrect. The words describe slightly different versions on a theme, but there are differences:
 Green tunnel (Andrew Bossi) CC BY-SA 2.5 Pergola: DIY, ready-made, or custom
This decision is one of those time-or-money questions. Most of us have one or the other, but rarely both. If you have time and tools, you can find designs online and at your local library for a wide variety of pergola styles. The building process is relatively straightforward. If you prefer more convenience, there are ready-made pergolas with the lumber already cut and drilled and all you do is assemble the pieces. If you have money to spare, the sky is the limit. You can custom design a pergola to fit your space and style, creating a unique, artistic sanctuary in your garden or landscape. Plants and pergolas One of the biggest problems with vine-covered pergolas is weather. [I’m speaking from personal experience here.] One night of freezing temperatures and your trumpet vine, wisteria, or honeysuckle can be killed off, leaving behind a skeleton of its former self. Luckily, in most cases, the root system will be able to recover thanks to that heat-sink concrete patio slab. Of course, covering an 8- or 9-foot high pergola with some square footage takes time. You may want to supplement your shade with shade cloth for the first few years. And if freezing temperatures are predicted, hang some old fashioned Christmas lights, drape plants with fabric (without touching), or fire up the BBQ grill. [Just make sure you don’t start a fire somewhere else!] Pergola plant selection As you select plants to grow up your pergola, make sure they are suited to your microclimate in terms of temperature, sun exposure, and soil. This will help your plants thrive and reduce your workload. You should also consider bloom time. Some people install multiple plants with different bloom times and colors for a longer season of flowers. Of course, my personal favorites are the edibles! Here are some popular plants for pergolas:
Training your pergola plants Most climbing plants, even self-clinging varieties, will benefit from a little help, at first. You can gently tie new stems to the nearest pergola post, leaving the ties in place until the tendrils have taken a firm hold on their own. Once plants have reached the top of the pergola, these ties can be removed. So, more than just shade, a pergola can provide support structure for climbing plants, reduced water and electric bills, increased home value, and even art! Bee balm is a striking North American native that attracts more than just bees to your garden. Bees and other pollinators are what help your garden plants produce the fruits and vegetables we love. Adding plants that they love can increase your bounty many times over. Bee balm also provides pollen and nectar to other beneficial insects.  Female ruby-throated hummingbird sipping nectar from scarlet bee balm (Joe Schneid) CC BY 3.0 Antiseptic bee balm Bee balm is a perennial. It is also a member of the mint family. Like other mints, bee balm has antiseptic properties. In fact, it is still used as a primary ingredient in popular mouthwashes. Native Americans used bee balm leaves and flowers to treat headaches, wounds, flatulence, and respiratory problems. They also used it to season wild game. While somewhat bitter, it tastes like a combination of peppermint and oregano.
How to grow bee balm Bee balm, like other mints, prefers rich, moist soil. If enough moisture is present, bee balm can overtake an area. Some varieties can tolerate more dryness than others, so do your homework. It is easiest to buy bee balm plants from a reputable seller, or, if you know someone with an established plant, you can ask them to share some with you the next time they are dividing their plants. Bee balm can be planted in spring or fall. Plants should be spaced two feet apart, and the planting hole should have some compost worked into it, to a depth of 12 to 15 inches. In most regions, bee balm prefers full sun, but scorching California summers can sometimes be a bit much, so you may want to place your bee balm in where it will be protected from direct sunlight in the hottest part of the day. On the flip side of the calendar, your bee balm plant may die back to ground level in the winter, but don’t panic. Simply cover the area with mulch and it will be back when temperatures warm. Bee balm pests and diseases Powdery mildew is really the only problem that occurs with bee balm. You can protect your bee balm from powdery mildew by avoiding overhead watering and by pruning for good air flow. Fungicides can be used with marginal success.  Bee balm (Napa Master Gardeners) Caring for bee balm
Bee balm is a low maintenance plant. You will want to provide it with a layer of compost each spring, covered with mulch, for good soil health. It may need to be watered during the peak of summer and be sure to remove spent blooms (deadhead) to encourage fresh flowers throughout the growing season. So, sooth your senses and savor the site of butterflies and bees in your garden with bee balm! Cattle panels, or livestock panels, make it easy to grow vertically. Manufactured for the farming community, cattle panels, also known as stock panels, are used to modify corrals, create paths, and move livestock from one place to another. Being made for the rigors of farming and livestock, these panels are durable.  Mexican sour gherkins growing up cattle panel (Kate Russell) Cattle panel description
Cattle panels are made out of heavy duty 4 gauge (1/4”) galvanized rods that are welded into a grid. Most livestock panels are quite large, usually 16 to 20 feet long and a little over 4 feet wide. They are surprisingly affordable, at $20 to $30 each. [Getting them home can be tricky.] Hog panels are similar, except they are 3 feet wide, and the squares are more narrow along one edge. Once nice thing about stock panels is that you can cut out the horizontal rods along one edge to make legs that can be stuck in the ground for added support. If a full-sized panel is bigger than your garden space can handle, have the seller cut it in half for you, and then you’ll have two panels! Admittedly, this metal is sturdy, so bending (or cutting) it takes some effort. Cutting these panels requires the use of bolt cutters and some arm muscle. Gloves are a good idea whenever handling stock panels, too. Once the job is done, however, your garden will have added vertical space and it is easy to repurpose your stock panels as the seasons change. Advantages of growing up Apartment balconies, strips of ground between a house and a fence, and areas next to walkways are just a few places where you can get more out of your garden by growing vertically. Not only does growing vertical take up less space, it often improves air flow, reducing fungal diseases and making plants healthier than they would be spreading out on the ground. Healthier plants are better able to defend themselves against pests and disease, so you don’t have to resort to chemicals. Ways to use cattle panels in the garden Because these panels are so sturdy, they can be used in several different ways in the garden. Here are just a few ideas to get you inspired:
Which plants get trellised? Many different plants can be trained up a stock panel: pole beans, peas, cucumbers, melons, and squash come to mind for most people, but raspberry and blackberry canes can also be trellised using cattle panels. Tomatoes, too, can be coaxed into growing up and around these panels, gaining support similar to what they would get from a tomato cage. Grapes, gourds, and even pumpkins can be trellised on stock panels, but heavier produce may need a hammock for added support, especially as some of them can become quite large! Cattle panels are not your frail, fancy trellises, prone to rust and breakage. These suckers are sturdy and will last for many years in your garden. Yarrow is a trouble-free plant that offers many benefits in your garden or landscape.  Yarrow flower (Kate Russell) Yarrow (Achillea millefolium) is native to all of the temperate (non-polar and non-equatorial) regions of Earth. Traditionally, the above ground portions of yarrow, also known as the nosebleed plant, old man’s pepper, soldier’s woundwort, and thousand-seal, was used medicinally to stop the flow of blood from wounds, ease toothache, treat digestive discomfort, and to induce sweating. The science behind what yarrow can and cannot do is limited. It is a mild sedative. Some studies have shown that it can relax the smooth muscle of the uterus, so it should not be taken by pregnant women. Yarrow may also be able to intensify the effects of blood-thinning and blood pressure reducing medications, lithium, and sleep aids. Also, yarrow is believed to slightly increase stomach acid. Even if you never touch the stuff, yarrow is a good addition to a landscape. It looks nice in containers, too. The yarrow plant Yarrow makes an excellent ground cover. If mowed regularly, it will remain prostrate. If left to its own devices, it will grow to be a foot or two tall. The lovely feathery leaves feel soft and delicate to the touch, but these plants are tough. I don’t do anything for mine and they just keep on growing. Yarrow is drought tolerant and butterflies are drawn to the flowers.  Yarrow (Kate Russell) Edible yarrow
While not particularly edible, the way lettuce or spinach are, yarrow can be dried and used to make a tea. Young leaves and flowers are sometimes added to salads, but I just tried it and don’t care for it. The tea is very nice. Yarrow has been used as livestock feed, in some regions, and to some, it is a weed. Yarrow’s true value, however, lies in its role as an insectary. Yarrow as insectary Increasing the biodiversity in your garden or landscape helps to keep it healthier. Mutually beneficial arrangements that have taken millions of years to sort themselves out really are effective. Rather than trying to Disnefy your landscape, with neat and tidy arrangements, adding a variety of flower shapes, sizes, and colors will attract more beneficial insects. Okay, okay, so we all want the topiary elephant, but diversity is still healthier than monoculture. Yarrow flowers provide nectar and pollen to many beneficial insects, including:
Aphids, striped and spotted cucumber beetles, flea beetles, and lygus bugs are also attracted to yarrow, but, in this case, that’s a good thing. First, it means they are not on your tomatoes. Second, those particular aphids are destined to be eaten by the larval forms of all those beneficial insects! Sort of a hoverfly happy meal! Growing yarrow Yarrow seeds need light to germinate, so do not bury them in the soil. A light dusting of soil or vermiculite will hold the seeds in place, but you might want to use a mister to water the seeds until the germinate. Either that, or you can saturate the soil with water, add seeds, and cover with plastic until the seeds germinate. Once your yarrow gets going, you will want to find it a permanent home. Yarrow tends to spread on its own, and it can even be used as a low border hedge. You can easily dig established plants up and divide them. Do you have areas of bare soil in your landscape? These encourage erosion and unhealthy soil. Adding yarrow to your landscape or garden is a good way to reduce erosion, attract and feed beneficial insects, and hey, the flowers are lovely, too! Insectary plants are grown to attract and provide for beneficial insects. There are many insect parasites and predators that can help control garden pests without the use of chemical pesticides. While they may not eliminate all of the pests, insect parasites have evolved into effective predators of the insects that plague our gardens and landscapes. By installing plants that attract and feed these beneficial insects, the need for more stringent measures is reduced. And, hey, who doesn’t want a garden filled with flowers?  Borage (Kate Russell) What makes an insect beneficial? Insects are called ‘beneficials’ when they help us get what we want. In the case of gardening, beneficial insects may be pollinators, predators, or parasites. Pollinators, such as solitary bees, increase crop yields by transferring pollen to female flowers. If you have a monochrome garden with no flowers other than your cucumber and tomato plants, you won’t get nearly the same production as you would with a diverse color palette and many other flowers besides your vegies. Other beneficials, such as lady beetles, chow down on aphids and many other pests, like they were a bag of potato chips. A third group of beneficials is the parasites. These insects lay their eggs in insect pests, killing them from the inside out. The syrphid wasp, or hoverfly, and many other tiny parasitic wasps, are very efficient killers and, no, they do not sting people. The problem with buying predatory insects Some beneficial insects are so well known that you can buy them. Lady beetles (ladybugs), lacewings, and praying mantis are purchased each spring by the millions, It is true, they are voracious feeders and they can put a serious dent in an aphid or other pest population. And they can fly, which means that if your landscape does not give them what they want and need, they will go elsewhere. This is where insectary plants comes in. Color, shape, and height Some insects prefer globe flowers, while other prefer flat landing strips. Most insects see a very limited range of color (even if that range is frequently beyond what we can see). Some insects prefer flowers and foliage that are low to the ground, while others seek out taller flowers with a better view. By planting a wide variety of flower colors, shapes, and heights, you can attract and retain the widest range of beneficial insects to your garden or landscape.  Chives (Kate Russell) Plant selection The trick to attracting and maintaining these beneficial insects is to plan for sequential flowering. Of course, your job will be even easier if you select plants well suited to your microclimate, while you’re at it! The choice of which plants to use depends on the pests commonly found in your garden or landscape. These plants are nearly always a good bet:
 Cilantro (Kate Russell) Where to put insectary plants
Your insectary plants can be used to create hedgerows that surround a garden plot, along a walkway path, or you can simply intersperse these helpers throughout the landscape. Most residential gardens, however, are too small to make this much of a concern, unlike agricultural fields, so you can put them wherever they will thrive and look nice. Like other plants in the landscape, your insectary plants will need weeding, irrigation, and protection from vertebrate pests to stay healthy. The initial investment of time and effort will make your job as a gardener that much easier, once these plants become established. Be sure to provide your guests with water, while you're at it!  Traditional lawn (Kate Russell) The scent of freshly cut grass and the sound of a lawn mower trigger many childhood memories of summer, but the history of lawns goes all the way back to our origins in Africa. Lawn history As far as historians can tell, our African ancestors maintained areas of low-growing grasses around their homes to make it easier to see predators before they got too close. That same train of thought continued well into Medieval times, when grand expanses of lawn exposed enemy armies as they approached. England’s 12th and 13th century nobility decided that lawns provided a great place for sports that eventually evolved into tennis, croquet, and golf. The less wealthy commoners also maintained grassy areas, but that was to feed their sheep and cattle. Traditional lawns Those grand expanses of greenery are easy to grow in England. Adequate moisture, fertile, well-drained soil, and lots of overcast days allow turf grasses to thrive. Plus, it’s much easier to find a sheep to keep your lawn neatly trimmed. Not so, here in the good ol’ US of A. The seed and sod originally brought to the U.S. was from plants native to England and cooler parts of Europe, which are completely unsuitable to many other warmer climates. Also, lawns are work - ask any greenskeeper. Most homeowners did not have the time or resources to maintain a lawn ‘just for show’, until the invention of the lawn mower, in 1830. Making it easier to maintain a neatly trimmed ornamental lawn, lawn mowers played a big role in making lawns popular among the poor and middle classes. In 1952, a man named Abraham Levitt created the first planned suburban community, complete with established lawns, and the American Dream, as we know it today, was born. (I’ll bet you thought it was a lot older than that, didn’t you? I did, too.) Modern lawns are commonly grown from sod. Sod is squares of soil with the grass already growing in it. Lawns can also be grown from seed, but grass seed isn’t cheap. Either is sod, for that matter. Grass varieties You can get warm season grass and cool season grass. The seasonality refers to when those particular grasses do the most growing. Bermudagrass, St. Augustinegrass, zoysiagrass, and kikuyugrass are popular Bay Area warm season grasses that stay green all summer (if watered regularly), but they tend to have a dormant winter period. Our fall grasses include bentgrass, Kentucky bluegrass, tall fescue, fine fescue, and perennial ryegrass. These stay green year round. Each region has its own characteristics that make one variety better suited than another. Grasses are generally categorized according to water needs, disease resistance, salinity tolerance, shade tolerance, traffic tolerance, and maintenance needs. Contact your local Cooperative Extension Office for recommendations for your area. Lawn pests & diseases Lawns, or turf grasses, only have a few insect pests in the San Jose area. Cutworms, grubs, crane flies, masked chafers (white grubs), and chinch bugs may cause some problems. Birds, raccoons, and moles may cause further damage by hunting and digging up the insects. Lawn diseases are equally rare. Leaf spot, rust, anthracnose, Fusarium blight, fairy rings, and other fungal diseases can occur, but these are usually the result of frequent, shallow watering. Lawn maintenance The key to a beautiful lawn is good cultural practices. Cultural practices that ensure a healthy lawn include:
Lawn weeds Weeds are the bane of every lawn aficionado. The list is long and the battle never ends. Some of the more common San Jose lawn weeds include:
Your weed and pest problems may vary.  Wood chip mulch is an excellent lawn alternative Kate Russell) Lawn alternatives
If you live in Santa Clara County, Ca, you may be able to take advantage of the lawn replacement program designed to reduce water use. I did it and received a check for $960! Instead of grass that required watering, fertilizing, weeding, mowing, and edging, I now have CA native blackberries, a dwarf pomegranate, a pineapple guava tree, and an artichoke. Soon, CA native hazelnuts will be added to the mix. Once these plants are established, they require little or no care at all, plus they provide food. Many other counties and municipalities are offering similar lawn replacement rebates to encourage home owners and businesses to step away from the wasteful lawn habit, to replace it with more suitable plantings. I encourage you to investigate your options. There are many low-growing plants that use far less water and fertilizer and mowing and edging to look and feel nice. Oregano, yarrow, mint, chamomile, and creeping thyme all provide the added benefit of being edible. Lawns can also be replaced with rain gardens and rock gardens. For the sake of all things living, do not install a fake lawn. The plastic off-gases chemicals of dubious health and, honestly, they look like crap. If you must have a lawn, give it the care it needs.
Native Americans relied heavily on winter squash, such as pumpkins, corn (maize), and climbing (or pole) beans for both food and trade goods for several hundred years. This successful growing method spread west and south to what would become Utah, Colorado, Arizona and Mesoamerica.
Benefits of the Three Sisters Method Planting these three sisters together allows them to benefit each other in several ways:
In some areas, a fourth plant was added to the mix. This was usually a flowering plant used to attract pollinators, such as honey bees, to increase yield. Just as the three plants benefit each other as they grow, eating them together provides fatty acids and the eight essential amino acids needed to form complete proteins. Planting by the Three Sisters Method Rather than planting in rows, the Three Sisters Methods calls for flat-topped mounds, 12” high and 20” wide. Several corn seeds would be planted in each mound. In some areas, rotten fish or eels would be added at the same time, to act as fertilizer. Some areas planted all three types of seeds at the same time. Others would wait until the corn was 6” tall before adding squash and beans. Seeds would be alternately planted around the corn. Two types of beans were used: common beans (Phaseolus vulgaris) and tepary beans (Phaseolus acutifolius), which are more drought tolerant. You can create your own Three Sisters garden design using the same companion planting concepts. Since corn has higher pollination rates when planted in blocks, rather than rows, you can set aside an area of the yard, or a raised bed, as your very own Three Sisters garden. The corn will grow up, the beans will climb the corn and add nitrogen to the soil, while the squash protects the ground with its wide leaves. Come autumn, your family will be able to enjoy a high protein meal of beans and corn with a side order of baked or steamed squash, with very little effort on your part. Give it a try this growing season and see how well it works for you! Designing a garden before planting lightens your workload and helps you get the most out of any garden space. You don’t have to be a landscape architect to put the elements of garden design to work for you. And remember that most plants are very forgiving. Your garden design should reflect you rather than a textbook. It does not have to look like a glossy magazine photograph. Garden design is part science, part art, and part whimsy. So, grab some paper, a pencil with an eraser, and a rough sketch of your garden area, and get started! Whether you are working with a balcony, a small rental yard, or a more substantial suburban backyard, there are always options for gardening. The first thing you need to ask yourself is: What do you want out of your garden? Some people garden for fresh tomatoes, melons, and herbs. Others garden as a means toward self-sufficiency, while some do it out of necessity. For some, it provides a sense of sanctuary, while others are working kitchen gardens. Keep your underlying goal in mind as you ask yourself the next question. What do you have to work with? The physical properties of your garden and landscape location directly impact plants are soil, sun, and climate. Soil supports your plants. If you use containers or raised beds, soil composition is easy. Just add potting soil. If plants will be grown in the ground, get your soil tested by a reputable local lab. These tests are inexpensive and invaluable.
Top dress your soil with aged compost at the beginning of the design process. As you plan and decide, worms, microorganisms, and other beneficial critters will improve the soil for whatever you plant. Sun exposure dictates which plants will thrive in your yard. Whatever the design, you will need to work within the parameters created by how much sunlight each area of the garden gets at different times of day and throughout the seasons. Color code your drawing to show which areas get full sun, partial sun, partial shade, or dappled shade, taking hourly notes. Your microclimate includes plant hardiness zone, annual rainfall, wind, slope, pollutants, and even tap water chemistry, all affect which plants will perform well in your garden. Principles of design Professional landscape architects use specific design principles to help them make good decisions, and you can, too. Below, you will find a description of eight design principle with questions to ask yourself about your own space. 1. Boundaries The limits of your property certainly create boundaries, but you can use garden beds to build boundaries within boundaries. As you create boundaries within your garden, see if they feel right. Whether fences, hedgerows, or walls, boundaries can keep chickens out of the salad patch, nosy neighbors from seeing in, and hide any eyesores. Identify fixed boundaries already in place and those you want to add. 2. Lines Lines are visual cues that pull our eyes along a path. Lines can be straight, curved, vertical, or horizontal. Buildings, fences, pools, existing plants, and paths create lines. A row of tall sunflowers will draw your eyes skyward. A curving stone path quietly invites you in to explore. Look at the lines that already exist in your yard and see how each of them makes you feel. Do they fulfill your goals? If not, how can they be changed? 3. Surfaces Imagine walking through a garden on a concrete sidewalk. Now imagine walking through that garden on a path made of wooden planks, wood chips, or cobblestones. The feel of the entire space changes. Do the surfaces currently in your garden allow for proper drainage? Are they durable? Are they comfortable or safe to walk on? Do they match your Dream Garden? 4. Form Form and shape have an impact on how a space is perceived. Shapes are two-dimensional. Forms are three-dimensional. Geometric forms, like circles and squares, create a more formal garden. The more natural forms of streams and shrubs create a relaxed atmosphere. When shopping for plants, keep their mature form and shape in mind, as well as size. What shapes and forms will create the feel you want in your garden? 5. Texture Texture refers to a plant’s bark, foliage, flowers, and overall structure. Texture can be coarse, medium, or fine. Coarse-textured plants attract attention and delineate space, while fine-textured plants soothe and create openness. Buildings, paths, and other design components also have texture. Create a sense of expansion by putting finer textures around the edges, medium textures inside the perimeter, and one or a few coarse-textured plants closest to the house. Reverse those plantings to create a sense of closeness. How many different textures do you currently have in your garden? Do those textures create the feel you want from your garden? If not, what can you change? 6. Color If everything in your garden were green, it would eventually get boring. What colors occur in your garden during each season? Are there times or spaces that need help? You can use color schemes and a color wheel to create balance and add contrast to your garden design. The color wheel refers to the three primary colors (red, yellow, and blue), three secondary colors (green, orange, and purple), and so on. Color schemes can be monochromatic (all one color, in addition to green foliage), analogous (any 3 to 5 colors that are next to each other on the color wheel), or complementary (colors opposite each other on the color wheel). The buildings, paths, and other existing features of your yard are part of this color factor. What colors already exist on your property? Are there places you can alter to create a more pleasing experience? Research has demonstrated that color plays a role in our moods. What mood do you want to get from your garden?
7. Garden furniture and art Most gardens offer a place to sit, relax, and enjoy a cup of coffee or a glass of wine. Patio furniture, awnings, yard art, pergolas, picnic tables, fire pits, and all the other elements of your space influence the overall feel of your garden. Looking at what you already have, ask yourself if those items fit in with your overall design, color scheme, forms, and textures. 8. Lighting Lighting can provide safety and add atmosphere to a landscape. Solar lights are a popular choice for illuminating a garden at night, but some plants, like some people, need the lights out to sleep well. Consider directing outdoor lighting onto paths, doorways, and seating areas to avoid distressing plants. Themes Your garden is your own. There is no right or wrong garden design, as long as your plants are healthy and you enjoy it. If you are unsure about how to start, consider these garden themes:
Plant selection Plant selection is similar to painting a room. You know what you want the result to look like, so you buy your paint. A week goes by, and you are still sanding, spackling, and taping. Adding plants to your garden or landscape, like the paint, is the last step in a process that takes time. Permit yourself to take the time you need to plan and prepare. After analyzing soil, sunlight, surfaces, lighting, lines, location, boundaries, form, furniture, color, texture, and art, you can finally decide which plants will suit your purposes and microclimate. Companion plants While deciding which plants to put near each other (and which ones need some space), you may want to consider companion planting. While there have been a lot of false claims and propaganda about companion planting, there are some scientific facts you can put to work for you, such as the Three Sisters Method of growing corn, squash, and pole beans together, used by Native Americans. Quarantine As tempting as it may be to install your new plants as soon as you get home, it is a far better idea to place them in a quarantine area until you are sure that they are free of pests and diseases, saving you a lot of time and money in the long run. Plant installation When installing plants, ensure that each location provides the correct sunlight and wind protection. It is nearly always a good idea to install larger plants first, starting with trees, then shrubs, then perennials, and ending with annuals and ground cover. Not only will this plan help you to stay focused on the design, but it will also protect smaller plants from being damaged by the installation of larger plants. Print a Google Maps image of your property for an easy place to start. Heck, print a few of them! Then play around with it. Explore each of the design principles. Pencil some new plants in. Use your eraser and different colors. Add what you already have and try new ideas before picking up a shovel! Take some before and after photos and enjoy what you accomplish! There’s more to sunny marigolds than meets the eye. These brightly colored annual and perennial flowers add gold, yellow, white, red, and copper to the landscape through summer and fall. The simple daisy shapes or full to bursting carnation-like blooms, members of the sunflower family, are able to thrive in our scorching hot summers long after fainter hearts have collapsed. If that weren’t reason enough, there is magic in marigolds!  Red marigold (Kokkarani) CC BY-SA 4.0 Marigold magic
The magic of marigold lies in its scent. While we may (or may not) enjoy it, many animal and insect pests really don’t like it. These makes marigolds an excellent natural deterrent to pests that will attack your tomatoes, eggplant, potatoes, and sweet peppers. Deer, rabbits, moles, and voles are also said to dislike the scent enough to forage elsewhere. Chemicals in the roots even attract and then kill nematodes. While nothing works 100%, marigolds can help reduce some nematode populations as they give your edibles a lovely floral border! Types of marigolds Marigolds used to only be available in yellow carnation type blooms. Now, the range of colors and bloom shapes is astounding. As you shop for marigold seeds or seedlings, keep in mind that there are three main types of marigolds:
Be forewarned, marigolds in the Tagetes genus are generally not edible. If you want edible marigolds, go for the Calendula, or pot marigolds. Growing marigolds Marigolds can be grown in containers, on windowsills, or in any sunny spot in the landscape or garden, as long as they are not near legumes. Some people claim that marigolds should not be grown near legumes. They say that the chemicals that make marigolds beneficial, can also interrupt the nitrogen-fixing capabilities of legumes, such as peas and beans, but I don’t know if this is true. Larger varieties of marigolds should be placed 2 to 3 feet apart, while the smaller, lower growing varieties can be one foot apart. Seeds can be started indoors before the last frost, but they will want a site with plenty of sunshine. While they prefer full sun, marigolds can also be grown in partial shade. Marigold seeds germinate quickly. As they start growing, seedlings will benefit from a layer of mulch placed around them. This mulch will shade the soil, add nutrients, and reduce competition from weeds. After that, they never need fertilizer. In fact, too many nutrients encourages leaf growth, rather than flowers. Flower production can be encouraged by removing, or deadheading, spent blooms. Do not use overhead watering. Instead, water near the base of each plant, allowing the soil to dry out between waterings. Marigold pests & diseases Damping-off disease can be a problem when seeds are started indoors. Marigolds are quite hardy and drought tolerant. Too much moisture can cause bacterial spot, powdery mildew, gray mold, Alternaria leaf spot, and root rot. Aphids and mites may try infesting your marigolds, but a quick spray from the hose early (in the morning), or brushing the pests off with a soft brush, is all the treatment that is needed. Many butterflies are attracted to marigolds, and they make excellent dried flower arrangements. Add marigolds to your garden shopping list and spread some beneficial color! Rain gardens do not cultivate rain. They are not ponds or wetlands. Most of the time, a rain garden isn’t wet at all. So… What is a rain garden? A rain garden is a sunken area designed to redirect rain water away from buildings, driveways, lawns, and other landscape features that may have drainage problems, and to hold onto that water long enough to filter sediment and pollutants. Rain gardens typically use native plants that do not require additional irrigation. These plants help hold, filter, and slow the release of rainwater, reducing runoff and pollution, while allowing more water to be absorbed. This usually occurs within 48 hours, preventing mosquito breeding. According to The Groundwater Foundation, “Rain gardens are effective in removing up to 90% of nutrients and chemicals and up to 80% of sediments from the rainwater runoff. Compared to a conventional lawn, rain gardens allow for 30% more water to soak into the ground.” Now, industrial and commercial properties have high tech rain gardens that incorporate sand and filtering systems and all that, but we, as homeowners, don’t need to go quite that far to get similar benefits.  Image of rain garden by Kkastner Why have a rain garden? If you live in California, you know that our occasional rains can be disruptive. The ground can be dry to the point of becoming hydrophobic, repelling water and causing flash floods. You may not have a flash flood in your yard, but the principles behind rain gardens can still help prevent the loss of topsoil and other problems associated with urban drool. Also, the majority of the water that comes off your roof and driveway contains a lot of pollutants that you probably don’t want in your edibles. Installing a rain garden also helps attract beneficial insects and other pollinators, increasing biodiversity. Rain gardens are very low maintenance once installed and they look nice!  Recently planted home rain garden (BrianAsh) CC BY-SA 4.0 How and where are rain gardens installed?
Since most of the water for your rain garden will probably come from rain gutter downspouts, you will need to select a location that allows for a path (read decorative trench) from those downspouts to a low area in your yard. Areas with full sun are preferred over shady areas. You will want to make sure that your rain garden site is at least 10 feet away from your home or other buildings and not over a septic field. Once you have a location, use these steps to create your rain garden:
This is a big project, but it is one that will improve soil and water quality in your area for a very long time. If you have the space, consider adding a rain garden to your landscape. (And be sure to share photos!) Chamomile makes a soothing tea, an excellent ground cover, and, hey, it looks pretty. Just ask Beatrix Potter fans! Seriously, these dainty little flowers have been used and enjoyed for a really long time. According to the National Institutes of Health, “Chamomile is one of the oldest, most widely used and well documented medicinal plants in the world and has been recommended for a variety of healing applications.” Scientific research has shown chamomile’s anti-inflammatory and soothing properties to be moderately to significantly effective against a number of digestive, respiratory, and sleep-related problems.
Attracting beneficials with chamomile
If all those medical conditions weren’t reason enough to add chamomile to your garden or foodscape, many beneficial insects are also attracted to chamomile. Syrphid or hoverflies, parasitic wasps, tachinid flies, bees, and other pollinators are attracted to chamomile. Chamomile varieties There are many daisy-like plants that fall under the name chamomile, but only two genuine varieties: Roman and German. German chamomile (Matricaria recutita), also known as ‘Water of Youth’ or wild chamomile, is an annual that can grow up to 2 feet in height and 2 feet across. Roman, English, Russian, or garden chamomile (Anthemis nobilis) is a low-growing perennial, often used as a ground cover or lawn replacement. When selecting chamomile plants for tea, be sure to select German chamomile and not Roman. How to grow chamomile Chamomile (or camomile) prefers full sun to partial shade and moderate amounts of water. It can be grown in a container or directly in the ground. Chamomile is best planted in protected areas if temperatures are expected to rise above 100 degrees F. Chamomile generally does not require supplemental fertilizer. Chamomile is best grown from established plant cuttings or division, but it can be grown from seed. Chamomile seeds require light to germinate, so they should not be covered. Seeds take 1 or 2 weeks to germinate. Plants should be cut back 3 to 5 inches every so often to prevent excessive size and legginess. Trimming will also promote flower production. If growing for tea, flowers should be removed (deadheaded) on the first day they bloom for the best flavor. Chamomile pests & diseases Chamomile is a sturdy, drought tolerant plant, but it may become susceptible to powdery mildew, white rust, leaf blight, aphids, thrips, and mealybugs if weakened by lack of water or other environmental stresses. Several beetles find chamomile flowers to be as appealing as we do, so it is important to wash plants off when harvesting, to avoid contaminating your tea. The bad news Just when you had every reason to add chamomile to your garden, it is important to know that it is not for everyone. All the chemicals that make chamomile so helpful can also make it harmful. People who are sensitive to ragweed or chrysanthemums may develop allergic reactions to chamomile. Also, since chamomile has been shown to stimulate uterine contractions, it should be avoided by pregnant and nursing women. You can dry chamomile flowers in an old pillowcase, the same way you can preserve lavender. Dried flowers should be stored in an airtight container out of sunlight. So, put the kettle on and have yourself a piping hot cup of soothing chamomile tea. Germander is a rugged, woody, fragrant variety of plant from the mint family. If you are looking for a handsome, drought tolerant plant that can grow in pretty much any soil, consider germander. Full sun, partial sun, clay soil - germander doesn’t seem to care. And the deer leave it alone! Germander actually refers to an entire genus of plants called Teucrium. These plants are from the Mediterranean and eastern Europe. They grow wild in poor, rocky soil, so our California clay and drought are no problem.  There are several varieties of germander to choose from:
Germanders of all types feature sturdy pale green to grayish-green to foliage. These evergreens can have tiny flowers, like rosemary, or flowers on spikes. The leaves of some varieties can be very aromatic when crushed or brushed against. The color, structure, and fragrance have made germaders a popular choice for formal knot gardens and parterres. Their low maintenance durability make them excellent border plants, ground covers, and landscape anchors. Butterflies, bees, and other pollinators love germander flowers for their pollen and nectar. Germander can be grown in containers, indoors or out. Most germander varieties tend to get leggy, so pinching off or cutting stems just above leaf intersections can promote a bushier growth. Germander’s characteristics make it useful in many ways:
How to grow germander As a member of the mint family, germander is easiest to grow from cuttings and division. You can simply pull a piece of existing plant from the ground and put it in some moist soil. New roots should be visible before long. You can also snip a stem and treat it the same way. If you grow germander from seed, it may take a month for them to germinate. I don’t know about you, but a seed that takes that long to break ground is often forgotten about - especially if I forgot to use a plant marker. Take a look at germander the next time you visit a garden supply store. They normally have several varieties available. Germander pests include mites, rust, powdery mildew, and leaf spot, but healthy plants are generally able to fend for themselves. Do you have room for germander in your garden? I'd love to see photos! Often yanked out as a weed, purslane is decidedly edible.  Purslane (Kate Russell) Common purslane (Portulaca oleracea) requires little or no care in our California gardens and landscape. Also known as pigweed, pursley, and fatweed, this prostrate spreading succulent is an excellent addition to salads and sandwiches, plus it makes for a refreshing snack as you work in the garden! The leaves and young stems are crisp, moist, and lemony, something akin to spinach and watercress. Common purslane is not to be confused with Winter purslane (Claytonia perfoliata), also known as Miner’s lettuce. The two plants are very different, aside from both being edible.
Purslane is filled with lots of good nutrients. It has especially high levels of omega-3 fatty acids. According to Mother Earth News, purslane contains, “six times more vitamin E than spinach and seven times more beta carotene than carrots.“ Purslane provides high levels of antioxidants and vitamins A and C, along with potassium, iron, and magnesium. Purslane also contains pectin, which allows it to be used in cooking as a thickener (and helps reduce cholesterol). When overcooked, it may become slimy, like okra, so crushing the leaves is a good idea when adding it to soups and stews. If cooked lightly, purslane can also be used in stir fry dishes. That being said, oxalates are also present, so purslane should not be eaten by people prone to kidney stones. While purslane is an annual, it is well equipped to reproduce without human intervention. According to Sonoma Master Gardener Stephanie Wrightson, a single purslane plant can produce “240,000 seeds, which may germinate after 5 to 40 years” so it is a good idea to monitor the plants for seed production if you want to get rid of purslane and you’re in luck if you don’t! Purslane seeds love freshly turned soil, as it brings them closer to moisture and sunlight. While common purslane grows in a horizontal mat, you can also buy seeds for garden purslane (Portulaca oleracea) or golden purslane (Portulaca sativa). These plants are more upright in their growth (up to 18 inches tall) and the leaves are larger and more tender. To grow purslane seeds, plant them 4 to 6 inches apart, only about 1/4 inch deep. Keep them moist until they have germinated and put out some mature growth. Once established, the leaves and stems can be harvested at any time. Purslane can also be grown in containers, indoors or out, and it makes an attractive windowsill garden addition. Frost will kill the current generation. While I have never seen any pests or diseases affecting the purslane in my yard, there is a weevil, (Hypurus bertrandi), also known as portulaca leafminer that is known to attack purslane in California. There is also a purslane sawfly (Schizocerella pilicornis) that is found in California. An interesting note: purslane harvested in the morning is crisper, while the same plant harvested in the afternoon is sweeter. Purslane can handle dry and irrigated locations. Personally, I encourage it under my fruit trees. The plants cover the ground, protecting it from erosion, other weeds, and water loss, while the shallow roots do not seem to interfere with the trees. This living mulch serves me well in the garden and in the kitchen! Do you have purslane in your garden? Have a nibble and let us know what you think in the comments! No, we are not talking about growing rocks. Instead, stonecrops are a family of plants that perform especially well in hot, dry, rocky areas.  Stonecrops and other succulents come in a wide variety of shapes and colors. (Kate Russell) The stonecrop, or orpine, family is a group of herbaceous succulent dicotyledons that can sometimes appear as shrubs. They are commonly referred to as sedums. There is debate over just how many members of the stonecrop (Crassulaceae) family exist, but there are well over 1300 species. Nearly all varieties of stonecrop can be propagated from a single leaf, simply by laying it on some moist soil and watering regularly until roots are established.
Stonecrops have been around for nearly 100 million years. Some varieties are deciduous, meaning they lose their leaves in winter, while others are evergreen. Most are low-growing, perennial ground covers that require little or no care. Stonecrops in the garden Areas facing drought are perfect for stonecrop plants. They need very little soil and can store water in their fleshy leaves to carry them through difficult times. The only weather that threatens stonecrops is freezing temperatures after a rain. The plants will absorb all that water and, as temperatures drop below freezing, the expanding water will rupture the plant cells and turn the leaves into black mush. Stonecrops exposed to freezing weather should be given some sort of cover as protection. For the rest of us, our stonecrop plants can thrive just about any time of year. If water becomes particularly scarce, a stonecrop’s leaves will wither and turn leathery, but they will swell back to normal as soon as water becomes available. Stonecrops make excellent border, container, xeriscape, rock, and windowsill garden plants. The flowers provide lovely accents that are appreciated by pollinators and nectar drinkers. Many stonecrop plants are edible, but be sure to properly identify and research any plants before taking a bite.  Stonecrops add color to the landscape. (Kate Russell) Common stonecrops
While all stonecrops have fleshy leaves with a thick, waxy cuticle, the variety of shapes and colors make these plants excellent low-maintenance additions to practically any landscape. Their geometric patterns can be quite lovely. While Jade plants are one of the most common stonecrops, many sedum plants are recognized for their beauty and ease of care. The shapes of these amazing plants is so striking that potted collections can often be sold for well over $100. As easy as these plants are to propagate, however, there is no need to spend that kind of money. Find a friend who already has a few specimens, trade some of your own, and get creative with a container or garden location! Condiment or cover crop, mustard’s sunny yellow flowers, tasty seeds, and deep tap roots make it a useful plant worth learning about.  Mustard field in Spain (Kate Russell) A member of the Brassica family, mustard is a popular hot dog condiment and a cheery yellow weed that grows in even the driest areas. Before ripping out any stray mustard plants in your garden, consider these benefits:
As mustard nears the end of its life cycle, you can feed the soil or feed yourself. By mowing the plants before they go to seed, nutrients are added to the soil. If the plants are allowed to go to seed, the seeds can be collected and used in cooking or to make your own prepared mustard. The condiment is made by combining crushed seeds with vinegar and water. The leaves (greens) are also edible and oil can be extracted from the seeds. Mustard is related to radishes and turnips. People have been growing it for nearly 4,000 years. There are three basic types of mustard: white (Sinapis hurta), black (Brassica nigra), and oriental (Brassica juncea). White mustard is most commonly used as a cover crop. How many of us, as children, pinched snapdragon blooms between our fingers to see the floral dragon open and close its mouth? Yep, count me in!
Snapdragon classification
Standard snapdragons are classified as midget (6-8”), medium (15-30”), and tall (30-48”). There are also fairy snapdragons (pictured) that provide delicate, miniature versions of the blooms. How to grow snapdragons Snapdragons perform best in full or partial sun. They prefer well-drained soil and do well in rockeries. Unlike many other flowers, snapdragons can withstand frost and often provide cool season flowers. Snapdragons are difficult to start from seed, but it can be done. The normal lifecycle of a snapdragon is to bloom in fall and winter (weather permitting) and then drop seeds in spring. These seeds are exposed to a lot of heat during the summer. If you want to grow snapdragons from seed, simply reproduce that cycle. Cold, damp weather or soil will halt their growth. After flowers have passed their peak, be sure to deadhead the plants for more blooms. Snapdragon plants can become leggy and may need support. You can reduce this need by pruning the longest stems to form a bushier shape. Regular deadheading will promote more flower development. Snapdragon pests & diseases Once established, snapdragons should be allowed to dry out between waterings. They are prone to several fungal diseases, such as:
Anthracnose, root knot nematode, crown gall, and leaf and stem spot are also occasional problems on snapdragon. WARNING: ALL PARTS OF SNAPDRAGON ARE POISONOUS IF EATEN.
These members of the Evening Primrose family (Onangracea) generally love filtered light and will even thrive in shady areas. They do not perform well in full sun. I hang mine in a basket from a branch in one of my orange trees. It looks pretty when it’s blooming and I don’t even notice it when it’s not.
Fuchsias prefer overhead watering and will need to be watered frequently during our hot summer months. Spider mite and fuchsia gall mite damage can be minimized with insecticidal soap. During flower production, feed a complete fertilizer every few weeks or use delayed release plant food stakes (my personal choice for containerized ornamentals). In winter, I leave mine alone completely, and every spring it comes back adding a lovely touch of color. The hummingbirds seem to like it, too! Ground cover refers to low-growing, spreading plants that help prevent erosion, weeds, and water loss. Bare dirt in the garden is not a good thing. Naked soil is vulnerable to wind and water erosion, compaction, and nutrient leaching. The Dust Bowl of the 1930’s is a perfect example of what happens when soil is not managed properly. Topsoil is a precious commodity and we all need to work to protect it. Ground cover is an excellent method that requires very little effort and improves biodiversity in the garden.  Unmowed yarrow (Kate Russell) Benefits of planting ground cover As the roots of ground cover plants work their way deeper into the soil, they help prevent erosion and the loss of nutrient rich topsoil and water. The leaves and stems shade the ground, stabilizing temperatures. Ground cover plants also reduce the chance that weeds will grow. Ground cover plant selection Ground covers are traditionally shorter plants, but they come in a variety of heights, colors, and textures. There are five basic types of ground cover:
Look at lists of your region's native plants for some low-maintenance ground cover plants. Keep in mind, when selecting ground cover, that many of these plants will spread and fill an area. Invasive plants, such as Algerian or English ivy, ice plant, periwinkle (Vinca major) and licorice plant should not be used. In theory, traditional sod lawns are a form of ground cover, but they are unsuitable for drought-prone areas, requiring unsustainable amounts of water. Yarrow (above) makes an excellent ground cover. It can grow as tall as 2’, but will maintain a low growth if it is mowed occasionally while still young. It grows well in difficult clay soil and its soft feathery texture feels wonderful on your feet! Oregano and other low-growing herbs smell wonderful as you walk on them, and curly endive is surprisingly durable. If you don’t mind some height, annual rye grass has been shown to put roots down as far as 40”, helping to break up compacted soil. Mustard can help, too. Ground cover vs. cover crop Cover crops are usually grown with the intention of cutting them off at soil level and leaving them on top to decompose, or digging them into the soil, to return all of the nutrients contained in the plants back to the soil. Ground covers are plants grown with the intention of leaving them to continue growing indefinitely.  Truckload of free wood chips (Kate Russell) Plant-less ground covers?
Rather than exposing valuable topsoil to the elements, mulch is another option to ground cover plantings. Wood chips can be found for free from local tree trimming companies and it makes an excellent protective barrier. As the mulch breaks down, nutrients are added to the soil. Also, the mulch helps retain moisture and stabilize temperatures, providing a safe haven for earthworms and microorganisms that improve soil health. Planting it forward means adding plants to a landscape that can be gifted to others, shared at a holiday meal, or otherwise used at a specific time in the future. It also means designing a garden or landscape that provides year-round food and color.  Tomato in hand (Kate Russell) Seasonal planting As one season passes and another arrives, a whole new set of conditions take the stage. Sunlight hours, temperatures, and rainfall make it easier for some plants and harder for others. Planning a garden design for year-round food and flowers can increase biodiversity and pollination, while reducing weeds, pests, and erosion. It also makes a landscape look lovely every month of the year. Planting it forward - for food California weather makes it possible to grow edible plants outdoors year-round. Gardeners in other regions must plan differently. Cool season greens and cruciferous vegetables prefer our winter and spring. Potato plants offer greenery in the landscape from spring to summer, and harvestable potatoes in the fall. Perennial edibles, such as asparagus, fruit trees, bramble fruits, grapes, kiwifruit, and rhubarb are excellent anchor points in a landscape. Planting it forward for food allows you to share fresh produce at holiday dinners and other special events.  Tomato seedlings for everyone! (Kate Russell) Planting it forward - for color Edible and ornamental plants can provide many different colors. These different shapes and colors attract pollinators and other beneficial birds and insects. As the seasons change, so do those colors. When designing your garden or landscape, note what colors and blooms will be present each month. I use a spreadsheet of flower color by month to help ensure that my honey bees have access to food all year. [You can email me if you would like a copy.]  Flowering succulents with lettuce (Kate Russell) Planting it forward - for others Life is rarely restrained. Most plants generate far more seeds than are ever expected to survive. You can harvest those seeds and plant them. Cosmos and marigolds go to seed easily. Those and other seeds can be collected and planted as gifts to family and neighbors. They also make welcome gifts to individuals in hospitals and retirement homes. Melon and squash seeds can be started in small pots and gifted to neighbors and local food charities. Being large seeds, they are also easy for children to plant. Succulents are durable in drought-prone areas and they nearly propagate themselves. This is an excellent children's activity for several different reasons and it costs practically nothing.
So, make the most of your landscape and share the wealth!
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